The observations we obtained here showed that the chronometers had varied
their rates a little in consequence of the jolting of the carioles, but
their errors and rates were ascertained previous to our departure. We
observed the position of this fort to be latitude 55 degrees 25 minutes
35 seconds North, longitude 107 degrees 51 minutes 00 seconds West, by
lunars reduced back from Fort Chipewyan, variation 22 degrees 15 minutes
48 seconds West, dip 84 degrees 13 minutes 35 seconds.
March 5.
We recommenced our journey this morning, having been supplied with the
means of conveyance by both the Companies in equal proportions. Mr. Clark
accompanied us with the intention of going as far as the boundary of his
district. This gentleman was an experienced winter traveller and we
derived much benefit from his suggestions; he caused the men to arrange
the encampment with more attention to comfort and shelter than our former
companions had done. After marching eighteen miles we put up on Gravel
Point in the Deep River.
At nine the next morning we came to the commencement of Clear Lake. We
crossed its southern extremes and then went over a point of land to
Buffalo Lake and encamped after travelling twenty-six miles. After supper
we were entertained till midnight with paddling songs by our Canadians
who required very little stimulus beyond their natural vivacity to afford
us this diversion. The next morning we arrived at the establishments
which are situated on the western side of the lake near a small stream
called the Beaver River. They were small log buildings hastily erected
last October for the convenience of the Indians who hunt in the vicinity.
Mr. MacMurray, a partner in the North-West Company, having sent to Isle a
la Crosse an invitation to Mr. Back and I, our carioles were driven to
his post and we experienced the kindest reception. These posts are
frequented by only a few Indians, Crees, and Chipewyans. The country
round is not sufficiently stocked with animals to afford support to many
families and the traders subsist almost entirely on fish caught in the
autumn prior to the lake being frozen but, the water being shallow, they
remove to a deeper part as soon as the lake is covered with ice. The
Aurora Borealis was brilliantly displayed on both the nights we remained
here, but particularly on the 7th when its appearances were most
diversified and the motion extremely rapid. Its coruscations occasionally
concealed from sight stars of the first magnitude in passing over them,
at other times these were faintly discerned through them; once I
perceived a stream of light to illumine the under surface of some clouds
as it passed along. There was no perceptible noise.
Mr. MacMurray gave a dance to his voyagers and the women; this is a treat
which they expect on the arrival of any stranger at the post.
We were presented by this gentleman with the valuable skin of a black fox
which he had entrapped some days before our arrival; it was forwarded to
England with other specimens.
Our observations place the North-West Company's House in latitude 55
degrees 53 minutes 00 seconds North, longitude 108 degrees 51 minutes 10
seconds West, variation 22 degrees 33 minutes 22 seconds East.
The shores of Buffalo Lake are of moderate height and well wooded but
immediately beyond the bank the country is very swampy and intersected
with water in every direction. At some distance from the western side
there is a conspicuous hill which we hailed with much pleasure as being
the first interruption to the tediously uniform scene we had for some
time passed through.
On the 10th we recommenced our journey after breakfast and travelled
quickly as we had the advantage of a well-beaten track. At the end of
eighteen miles we entered upon the river Loche which has a serpentine
course and is confined between alluvial banks that support stunted
willows and a few pines; we encamped about three miles farther on and in
the course of the next day's march perceived several holes on the ice and
many unsafe places for the sledges. Our companions said the ice of this
river is always in the same insecure state, even during the most severe
winter, which they attributed to warm springs. Quitting the river we
crossed a portage and came upon the Methye Lake and soon afterwards
arrived at the trading posts on its western side. These were perfect huts
which had been hastily built after the commencement of the last winter.
We here saw two hunters who were Chipewyan half-breeds and made many
inquiries of them respecting the countries we expected to visit, but we
found them quite ignorant of every part beyond the Athabasca Lake. They
spoke of Mr. Hearne and of his companion Matonnabee, but did not add to
our stock of information respecting that journey. It had happened before
their birth but they remembered the expedition of Sir Alexander Mackenzie
towards the sea.
This is a picturesque lake about ten miles long and six broad and
receives its name from a species of fish caught in it but not much
esteemed; the residents never eat any part but the liver except through
necessity, the dogs dislike even that. The tittameg and trout are also
caught in the fall of the year. The position of the houses by our
observations is latitude 56 degrees 24 minutes 20 seconds North,
longitude 109 degrees 23 minutes 06 seconds West, variation 22 degrees 50
minutes 28 seconds East.
On the 13th we renewed our journey and parted from Mr. Clark to whom we
were much obliged for his hospitality and kindness.
