Having been equipped with carioles, sledges and provisions from the two
posts, we this day recommenced our journey and were much amused by the
novelty of the salute given at our departure, the guns being principally
fired by the women in the absence of the men. Our course was directed to
the end of the lake and for a short distance along a small river; we then
crossed the woods to the Beaver River which we found to be narrow and
very serpentine, having moderately high banks. We encamped about one mile
and a half farther up among poplars. The next day we proceeded along the
river; it was winding and about two hundred yards broad. We passed the
mouths of two rivers whose waters it receives; the latter one we were
informed is a channel by which the Indians go to the Lesser Slave Lake.
The banks of the river became higher as we advanced and were adorned with
pines, poplars and willows.
Though the weather was very cold we travelled more comfortably than at
any preceding time since our departure from Cumberland as we had light
carioles which enabled us to ride nearly the whole day warmly covered up
with a buffalo robe. We were joined by Mr. McLeod of the North-West
Company who had kindly brought some things from Green Lake which our
sledges could not carry. Pursuing our route along the river we reached at
an early hour the upper extremity of the Grand Rapid where the ice was so
rough that the carioles and sledges had to be conveyed across a point of
land. Soon after noon we left the river, inclining North-East, and
directed our course North-West until we reached Long Lake and encamped at
its northern extremity, having come twenty-three miles. This lake is
about fourteen miles long and from three-quarters to one mile and a half
broad, its shores and islands low but well wooded. There were frequent
snow-showers during the day.
ISLE A LA CROSSE.
February 23.
The night was very stormy but the wind became more moderate in the
morning. We passed today through several nameless lakes and swamps before
we came to Train Lake which received its name from being the place where
the traders procured the birch to make their sledges or traineaux; but
this wood has been all used and there only remain pines and a few
poplars. We met some sledges laden with fish, kindly sent to meet us by
Mr. Clark of the Hudson's Bay Company on hearing of our approach. Towards
the evening the weather became much more unpleasant and we were exposed
to a piercingly cold wind and much snowdrift in traversing the Isle a la
Crosse Lake; we were therefore highly pleased at reaching the Hudson's
Bay House by six P.M. We were received in the most friendly manner by Mr.
Clark and honoured by volleys of musketry. Similar marks of attention
were shown to us on the following day by Mr. Bethune, the partner in
charge of the North-West Company's fort. I found here the letters which I
had addressed from Cumberland in November last to the partners of the
North-West Company in the Athabasca, which circumstance convinced me of
the necessity of our present journey.
These establishments are situated on the southern side of the lake and
close to each other. They are forts of considerable importance being
placed at a point of communication with the English River, the Athabasca
and Columbia Districts. The country around them is low and intersected
with water, and was formerly much frequented by beavers and otters which
however have been so much hunted by the Indians that their number is
greatly decreased. The Indians frequenting these forts are the Crees and
some Chipewyans; they scarcely ever come except in the spring and autumn,
in the former season to bring their winter's collection of furs and in
the latter to get the stores they require.
Three Chipewyan lads came in during our stay to report what furs the band
to which they belonged had collected and to desire they might be sent
for, the Indians having declined bringing either furs or meat themselves
since the opposition between the Companies commenced. Mr. Back drew a
portrait of one of the boys.
Isle a la Crosse Lake receives its name from an island situated near the
forts on which the Indians formerly assembled annually to amuse
themselves at the game of the Cross. It is justly celebrated for
abundance of the finest tittameg, which weigh from five to fifteen
pounds. The residents live principally upon this most delicious fish
which fortunately can be eaten a long time without disrelish. It is
plentifully caught with nets throughout the year except for two or three
months.
March 4.
We witnessed the Aurora Borealis very brilliant for the second time since
our departure from Cumberland. A winter encampment is not a favourable
situation for viewing this phenomenon as the trees in general hide the
sky. Arrangements had been made for recommencing our journey today but
the wind was stormy and the snow had drifted too much for travelling with
comfort; we therefore stayed and dined with Mr. Bethune who promised to
render every assistance in getting pemmican conveyed to us from the
Saskatchewan to be in readiness for our canoes when they might arrive in
the spring; Mr. Clark also engaged to procure six bags for us and to
furnish our canoes with any other supplies which might be wanted and
could be spared from his post, and to contribute his aid in forwarding
the pemmican to the Athabasca if our canoes could not carry it all.
I feel greatly indebted to this gentleman for much valuable information
respecting the country and the Indians residing to the north of Slave
Lake and for furnishing me with a list of stores he supposed we should
require.
