This distance from the
Rocky Mountains (which I suppose to be of primitive formation) is upwards
of one hundred and thirty miles. The neighbouring plains are alluvial,
the soil is calcareous and contains numerous travelled fragments of
limestone. At a considerable distance below Edmonton the river,
continuing its course through the plains, becomes turbid and acquires a
white colour. In this state it is drunk by the inmates of Carlton House
where the disease is known only by name. It is said that the inhabitants
of Rocky Mountain House, sixty miles nearer the source of the river are
more severely affected than those at Edmonton. The same disease occurs
near the sources of the Elk and Peace Rivers; but in those parts of the
country which are distant from the Rocky Mountain Chain it is unknown
although melted snow forms the only drink of the natives for nine months
of the year.
A residence of a single year at Edmonton is sufficient to render a family
bronchocelous. Many of the goitres acquire great size. Burnt sponge has
been tried and found to remove the disease but an exposure to the same
cause immediately reproduces it.
A great proportion of the children of women who have goitres are born
idiots with large heads and the other distinguishing marks of cretins. I
could not learn whether it was necessary that both parents should have
goitres to produce cretin children: indeed the want of chastity in the
half-breed women would be a bar to the deduction of any inference on this
head.
...
DEPARTURE FROM CARLTON HOUSE.
February 8.
Having recovered from the swellings and pains which our late march from
Cumberland had occasioned we prepared for the commencement of our journey
to Isle a la Crosse, and requisitions were made on both the
establishments for the means of conveyance and the necessary supply of
provisions for the party which were readily furnished. On the 9th the
carioles and sledges were loaded and sent off after breakfast; but Mr.
Back and I remained till the afternoon as Mr. Prudens had offered that
his horses should convey us to the encampment. At three P.M. we parted
from our kind host and, in passing through the gate, were honoured with a
salute of musketry. After riding six miles we joined the men at their
encampment which was made under the shelter of a few poplars. The dogs
had been so much fatigued in wading through the very deep snow with their
heavy burdens, having to drag upwards of ninety pounds' weight each, that
they could get no farther. Soon after our arrival the snow began to fall
heavily and it continued through the greater part of the night.
Our next day's march was therefore particularly tedious, the snow being
deep and the route lying across an unvarying level, destitute of wood
except one small cluster of willows. In the afternoon we reached the end
of the plain and came to an elevation on which poplars, willows, and some
pines grew, where we encamped, having travelled ten miles. We crossed
three small lakes, two of fresh water and one of salt, near the latter of
which we encamped and were in consequence obliged to use for our tea
water made from snow which has always a disagreeable taste.
We had scarcely ascended the hill on the following morning when a large
herd of red-deer was perceived grazing at a little distance; and though
we were amply supplied with provision our Canadian companions could not
resist the temptation of endeavouring to add to our stock. A half-breed
hunter was therefore sent after them. He succeeded in wounding one but
not so as to prevent its running off with the herd in a direction wide of
our course. A couple of rabbits and a brace of wood partridges were shot
in the afternoon. There was an agreeable variety of hill and dale in the
scenery we passed through today, and sufficient wood for ornament but not
enough to crowd the picture. The valleys were intersected by several
small lakes and pools whose snowy covering was happily contrasted with
the dark green of the pine-trees which surrounded them. After ascending a
moderately high hill by a winding path through a close wood we opened
suddenly upon Lake Iroquois and had a full view of its picturesque
shores. We crossed it and encamped.
Though the sky was cloudless yet the weather was warm. We had the
gratification of finding a beaten track soon after we started on the
morning of the 12th and were thus enabled to walk briskly. We crossed at
least twenty hills and found a small lake or pool at the foot of each.
The destructive ravages of fire were visible during the greater part of
the day. The only wood we saw for miles together consisted of pine-trees
stripped of their branches and bark by this element: in other parts
poplars alone were growing which we have remarked invariably to succeed
the pine after a conflagration. We walked twenty miles today but the
direct distance was only sixteen.
The remains of an Indian hut were found in a deep glen and close to it
was placed a pile of wood which our companions supposed to cover a
deposit of provision. Our Canadian voyagers, induced by their insatiable
desire of procuring food, proceeded to remove the upper pieces and
examine its contents when, to their surprise, they found the body of a
female, clothed in leather, which appeared to have been recently placed
there. Her former garments, the materials for making a fire, a
fishing-line, a hatchet, and a bark dish were laid beside the corpse.
