He contrived to approach near
enough to fire twice, though without success, before the animal moved
away. After a fatiguing march of seventeen miles we put up at the Upper
Nippeween, a deserted establishment, and performed the comfortable
operations of shaving and washing for the first time since our departure
from Cumberland, the weather having been hitherto too severe. We passed
an uncomfortable and sleepless night and agreed next morning to encamp in
future in the open air as preferable to the imperfect shelter of a
deserted house without doors or windows.
The morning was extremely cold but fortunately the wind was light which
prevented our feeling it severely; experience indeed had taught us that
the sensation of cold depends less upon the state of temperature than the
force of the wind. An attempt was made to obtain the latitude which
failed in consequence of the screw that adjusts the telescope of the
sextant being immovably fixed from the moisture upon it having frozen.
The instrument could not be replaced in its case before the ice was
thawed by the fire in the evening.
In the course of the day we passed the confluence of the south branch of
the Saskatchewan, which rises from the Rocky Mountains near the sources
of the northern branch of the Missouri. At Coles Falls, which commence a
distance from the branch, we found the surface of the ice very uneven and
many spots of open water.
We passed the ruins of an establishment which the traders had been
compelled to abandon in consequence of the intractable conduct and
pilfering habits of the Assineboine or Stone Indians; and we learned that
all the residents at a post on the south branch had been cut off by the
same tribe some years ago. We travelled twelve miles today. The wolves
serenaded us through the night with a chorus of their agreeable howling
but none of them ventured near the encampment. But Mr. Back's repose was
disturbed by a more serious evil: his buffalo robe caught fire and the
shoes on his feet being contracted by the heat gave him such pain that he
jumped up in the cold and ran into the snow as the only means of
obtaining relief.
On the 28th we had a strong and piercing wind from North-West in our
faces and much snow-drift; we were compelled to walk as quick as we could
and to keep constantly rubbing the exposed parts of the skin to prevent
their being frozen, but some of the party suffered in spite of every
precaution. We descried three red-deer on the banks of the river and were
about to send the best marksmen after them when they espied the party and
ran away. A supply of meat would have been very seasonable as the men's
provision had become scanty and the dogs were without food except a
little burnt leather. Owing to the scarcity of wood we had to walk until
a late hour before a good spot for an encampment could be found and had
then attained only eleven miles. The night was miserably cold; our tea
froze in the tin pots before we could drink it and even a mixture of
spirits and water became quite thick by congelation; yet after we lay
down to rest we felt no inconvenience and heeded not the wolves though
they were howling within view.
The 29th was also very cold until the sun burst forth when the travelling
became pleasant. The banks of the river are very scantily supplied with
wood through the part we passed today. A long track on the south shore
called Holms Plains is destitute of anything like a tree and the opposite
bank has only stunted willows; but after walking sixteen miles we came to
a spot better wooded and encamped opposite to a remarkable place called
by the voyagers The Neck of Land.
A short distance below our encampment, on the peninsula formed by the
confluence of the Net-setting river with the Saskatchewan, there stands a
representation of Kepoochikawn which was formerly held in high veneration
by the Indians and is still looked upon with some respect. It is merely a
large willow bush having its tops bound into a bunch. Many offerings of
value such as handsome dresses, hatchets, and kettles, used to be made to
it, but of late its votaries have been less liberal. It was mentioned to
us as a signal instance of its power that a sacrilegious moose-deer,
having ventured to crop a few of its tender twigs, was found dead at the
distance of a few yards. The bush having now grown old and stunted is
exempted from similar violations.
On the 30th we directed our course round The Neck of Land which is well
clothed with pines and firs; though the opposite or western bank is
nearly destitute of wood. This contrast between the two banks continued
until we reached the commencement of what our companions called the
Barren Grounds when both the banks were alike bare. Vast plains extend
behind the southern bank which afford excellent pasturage for the buffalo
and other grazing animals. In the evening we saw a herd of the former but
could not get near to them. After walking fifteen miles we encamped. The
men's provision having been entirely expended last night we shared our
small stock with them. The poor dogs had been toiling some days on the
most scanty fare; their rapacity in consequence was unbounded; they
forced open a deal box containing tea, etc. to get at a small piece of
meat which had been incautiously placed in it.
ARRIVAL AT CARLTON HOUSE.
As soon as daylight permitted the party commenced their march in
expectation of reaching Carlton House to breakfast, but we did not arrive
before noon although the track was good.
