The Aurora Borealis had been
faintly visible for a short time the preceding evening. Some Indians
arrived in search of provision having been totally incapacitated from
hunting by sickness; the poor creatures looked miserably ill and they
represented their distress to have been extreme. Few recitals are more
affecting than those of their sufferings during unfavourable seasons and
in bad situations for hunting and fishing. Many assurances have been
given me that men and women are yet living who have been reduced to feed
upon the bodies of their own family to prevent actual starvation; and a
shocking case was cited to us of a woman who had been principal agent in
the destruction of several persons, and amongst the number her husband
and nearest relatives, in order to support life.
November 28.
The atmosphere had been clear every day during the last week, about the
end of which snow fell, when the thermometer rose from 20 degrees below
to 16 degrees above zero. The Aurora Borealis was twice visible but faint
on both occasions. Its appearance did not affect the electrometer nor
could we perceive the compass to be disturbed.
The men brought supplies of moose meat from the hunter's tent which is
pitched near the Basquiau Hill, forty or fifty miles from the house and
whence the greatest part of the meat is procured. The residents have to
send nearly the same distance for their fish and on this service
horse-sledges are used. Nets are daily set in Pine Island Lake which
occasionally procure some fine sturgeon, tittameg and trout, but not more
than sufficient to supply the officers' table.
December 1.
This day was so remarkably fine that we procured another set of
observations for the dip of the needle in the open air; the instrument
being placed firmly on a rock the results gave 83 degrees 14 minutes 22
seconds. The change produced by reversing the face of the instrument was
12 degrees 50 minutes 55 seconds.
There had been a determined thaw during the last three days. The ice on
the Saskatchewan River and some parts of the lake broke up and the
travelling across either became dangerous. On this account the absence of
Wilks, one of our men, caused no small anxiety. He had incautiously
undertaken the conduct of a sledge and dogs in company with a person
going to Swampy River for fish. On their return, being unaccustomed to
driving, he became fatigued and seated himself on his sledge where his
companion left him, presuming that he would soon rise and hasten to
follow his track. He however returned safe in the morning and reported
that, foreseeing night would set in before he could get across the lake,
he prudently retired into the woods before dark where he remained until
daylight, when the men who had been despatched to look for him met him
returning to the house, shivering with cold, he having been unprovided
with the materials for lighting a fire, which an experienced voyager
never neglects to carry.
We had mild weather until the 20th of December. On the 13th there had
been a decided thaw that caused the Saskatchewan, which had again frozen,
to reopen and the passage across it was interrupted for two days. We now
received more agreeable accounts from the Indians who were recovering
strength and beginning to hunt a little; but it was generally feared that
their spirits had been so much depressed by the loss of their children
and relatives that the season would be far advanced before they could be
roused to any exertion in searching for animals beyond what might be
necessary for their own support. It is much to be regretted that these
poor men, during their long intercourse with Europeans, have not been
taught how pernicious is the grief which produces total inactivity, and
that they have not been furnished with any of the consolations which the
Christian religion never fails to afford. This however could hardly have
been expected from persons who have permitted their own offspring the
half-casts to remain in lamentable ignorance on a subject of such vital
importance. It is probable however that an improvement will soon take
place among the latter class, as Governor Williams proposes to make the
children attend a Sunday school and has already begun to have divine
service performed at his post.
The conversations which I had with the gentlemen in charge of these posts
convinced me of the necessity of proceeding during the winter into the
Athabasca department, the residents of which are best acquainted with the
nature and resources of the country to the north of the Great Slave Lake;
and whence only guides, hunters and interpreters can be procured. I had
previously written to the partners of the North-West Company in that
quarter requesting their assistance in forwarding the Expedition and
stating what we should require. But, on reflecting upon the accidents
that might delay these letters on the road, I determined on proceeding to
the Athabasca as soon as I possibly could, and communicated my intention
to Governor Williams and Mr. Connolly with a request that I might be
furnished by the middle of January with the means of conveyance for three
persons, intending that Mr. Back and Hepburn should accompany me whilst
Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood remained till the spring at Cumberland House.
After the 20th of December the weather became cold, the thermometer
constantly below zero. Christmas Day was particularly stormy but the gale
did not prevent the full enjoyment of the festivities which are annually
given at Cumberland House on this day. All the men who had been
despatched to different parts in search of provision or furs returned to
the fort on the occasion and were regaled with a substantial dinner and a
dance in the evening.
