We began the ascent of Trout River early in the morning of the 27th and
in the course of the day passed three portages and several rapids. At the
first of these portages the river falls between two rocks about sixteen
feet and it is necessary to launch the boat over a precipitous rocky
bank. This cascade is named the Trout Fall, and the beauty of the scenery
afforded a subject for Mr. Hood's pencil. The rocks which form the bed of
this river are slaty and present sharp fragments by which the feet of the
boatmen are much lacerated. The Second Portage in particular obtains the
expressive name of Knife Portage. The length of our voyage today was
three miles.
HOLY LAKE.
On the 28th we passed through the remainder of Trout River; and at noon
arrived at Oxford House on Holy Lake. This was formerly a post of some
consequence to the Hudson's Bay Company but at present it exhibits
unequivocal signs of decay. The Indians have of late years been gradually
deserting the low or swampy country and ascending the Saskatchewan where
animals are more abundant. A few Crees were at this time encamped in
front of the fort. They were suffering under whooping-cough and measles
and looked miserably dejected. We endeavoured in vain to prevail on one
of them to accompany us for the purpose of killing ducks which were
numerous but too shy for our sportsmen. We had the satisfaction however
of exchanging the mouldy pemmican obtained at Swampy Lake for a better
kind, and received moreover a small but very acceptable supply of fish.
Holy Lake, viewed from an eminence behind Oxford House, exhibits a
pleasing prospect; and its numerous islands, varying much in shape and
elevation, contribute to break that uniformity of scenery which proves so
palling to a traveller in this country. Trout of a great size, frequently
exceeding forty pounds' weight, abound in this lake. We left Oxford House
in the afternoon and encamped on an island about eight miles distant,
having come during the day nine miles and a quarter.
WEEPINAPANNIS RIVER.
At noon on the 29th, after passing through the remainder of Holy Lake, we
entered the Weepinapannis, a narrow grassy river which runs parallel to
the lake for a considerable distance and forms its south bank into a
narrow peninsula. In the morning we arrived at the Swampy Portage where
two of the boats were broken against the rocks. The length of the day's
voyage was nineteen miles and a half.
In consequence of the accident yesterday evening we were detained a
considerable time this morning until the boats were repaired, when we set
out and, after ascending a strong rapid, arrived at the portage by John
Moore's Island. Here the river rushes with irresistible force through the
channels formed by two rocky islands; and we learned that last year a
poor man, in hauling a boat up one of these channels, was, by the
breaking of the line, precipitated into the stream and hurried down the
cascade with such rapidity that all efforts to save him were ineffectual.
His body was afterwards found and interred near the spot.
The Weepinapannis is composed of several branches which separate and
unite again and again, intersecting the country in a great variety of
directions.
WINDY LAKE.
We pursued the principal channel and, having passed the Crooked Spout
with several inferior rapids and crossed a small piece of water named
Windy Lake, we entered a smooth deep stream about three hundred yards
wide which has got the absurd appellation of the Rabbit Ground. The
marshy banks of this river are skirted by low barren rocks behind which
there are some groups of stunted trees. As we advanced the country,
becoming flatter, gradually opened to our view and we at length arrived
at a shallow, reedy lake, the direct course through which leads to the
Hill Portage. This route has however of late years been disused and we
therefore turned towards the north and, crossing a small arm of the lake,
arrived at Hill Gates by sunset; having come this day eleven miles.
October 1.
Hill Gates is the name imposed on a romantic defile whose rocky walls,
rising perpendicularly to the height of sixty or eighty feet, hem in the
stream for three-quarters of a mile, in many places so narrowly that
there is a want of room to ply the oars. In passing through this chasm we
were naturally led to contemplate the mighty but probably slow and
gradual effects of the water in wearing down such vast masses of rock;
but in the midst of our speculations the attention was excited anew to a
grand and picturesque rapid which, surrounded by the most wild and
majestic scenery, terminated the defile. The brown fishing-eagle had
built its nest on one of the projecting cliffs.
WHITE FALL LAKE AND RIVER.
In the course of the day we surmounted this and another dangerous portage
called the Upper and Lower Hill Gate Portages, crossed a small sheet of
water, termed the White Fall Lake and, entering the river of the same
name, arrived at the White Fall about an hour after sunset, having come
fourteen miles on a South-West course.
The whole of the 2nd of October was spent in carrying the cargoes over a
portage of thirteen hundred yards in length and in launching the empty
boats over three several ridges of rock which obstruct the channel and
produce as many cascades. I shall long remember the rude and
characteristic wildness of the scenery which surrounded these falls;
rocks piled on rocks hung in rude and shapeless masses over the agitated
torrents which swept their bases, whilst the bright and variegated tints
of the mosses and lichens that covered the face of the cliffs,
contrasting with the dark green of the pines which crowned their summits,
added both beauty and grandeur to the scene.
