Our distance made good this day was twelve miles and a quarter.
The labours of the 16th commenced at half-past five, and for some time
the difficulty of getting the boats over the rapids was equal to what we
experienced the day before. Having passed a small brook however, termed
Halfway Creek, the river became deeper and although rapid it was smooth
enough to be named by our Orkney boatmen Stillwater. We were further
relieved by the Company's clerks consenting to take a few boxes of our
stores into their boats. Still we made only eleven miles in the course of
the day.
The banks of Hill River are higher and have a more broken outline than
those of Steel or Hayes Rivers. The cliffs of alluvial clay rose in some
places to the height of eighty or ninety feet above the stream and were
surmounted by hills about two hundred feet high, but the thickness of the
wood prevented us from seeing far beyond the mere banks of the river.
September 17.
About half-past five in the morning we commenced tracking and soon came
to a ridge of rock which extended across the stream. From this place the
boat was dragged up several narrow rocky channels until we came to the
Rock Portage where the stream, pent in by a range of small islands, forms
several cascades. In ascending the river the boats with their cargoes are
carried over one of the islands, but in the descent they are shot down
the most shelving of the cascades. Having performed the operations of
carrying, launching, and restowing the cargo we plied the oars for a
short distance and landed at a depot called Rock House. Here we were
informed that the rapids in the upper parts of Hill River were much worse
and more numerous than those we had passed, particularly in the present
season owing to the unusual lowness of the water. This intelligence was
very mortifying, especially as the gentlemen in charge of the Company's
boats declared that they were unable to carry any part of our stores
beyond this place; and the traders, guides, and most experienced of the
boatmen were of opinion that, unless our boat was still further
lightened, the winter would put a stop to our progress before we could
reach Cumberland House or any eligible post. Sixteen pieces we therefore
necessarily left with Mr. Bunn, the gentleman in charge of the post, to
be forwarded by the Athabasca canoes next season, this being their place
of rendezvous.
After this we recommenced our voyage and, having pulled nearly a mile,
arrived at Borrowick's Fall, where the boat was dragged up with a line
after part of the cargo had been carried over a small portage. From this
place to the Mud Portage, a distance of a mile and three-quarters, the
boats were pushed on with poles against a very rapid stream. Here we
encamped, having come seven miles during the day on a South-West course.
We had several snow showers in the course of the day and the thermometer
at bedtime stood at 30 degrees.
On the morning of the 18th the country was clothed in the livery of
winter, a heavy fall of snow having taken place during the night. We
embarked at the usual hour and in the course of the day crossed the Point
of Rocks and Brassa Portages and dragged the boats through several minor
rapids. In this tedious way we only made good about nine miles.
On Sunday the 19th we hauled the boats up several short rapids or, as the
boatmen term them, expressively enough, spouts, and carried them over the
Portages of Lower Burntwood and Morgan's Rocks, on the latter of which we
encamped, having proceeded during the whole day only one mile and
three-quarters.
The upper part of Hill River swells out considerably, and at Morgan's
Rocks where it is three-quarters of a mile wide we were gratified with a
more extensive prospect of the country than any we had enjoyed since
leaving York Factory. The banks of the river here, consisting of low flat
rocks with intermediate swamps, permitted us to obtain views of the
interior, the surface of which is broken into a multitude of cone-shaped
hills. The highest of these hills, which gives a name to the river, has
an elevation not exceeding six hundred feet. From its summit thirty-six
lakes are said to be visible. The beauty of the scenery, dressed in the
tints of autumn, called forth our admiration and was the subject of Mr.
Hood's accurate pencil. On the 20th we passed Upper Burntwood and Rocky
Ledge Portages besides several strong spouts; and in the evening arrived
at Smooth Rock Portage where we encamped, having come three miles and a
half. It is not easy for any but an eye-witness to form an adequate idea
of the exertions of the Orkney boatmen in the navigation of this river.
The necessity they are under of frequently jumping into the water to lift
the boats over the rocks compels them to remain the whole day in wet
clothes at a season when the temperature is far below the freezing-point.
The immense loads too which they carry over the portages is not more a
matter of surprise than the alacrity with which they perform these
laborious duties.
CROSS SWAMPY LAKE.
At six on the morning of the 21st we left our encampment and soon after
arrived at the Mossy Portage where the cargoes were carried through a
deep bog for a quarter of a mile. The river swells out above this portage
to the breadth of several miles and as the islands are numerous there are
a great variety of channels.
