We embarked at three A.M. and proceeded to the entrance of the
Yellow-Knife River of the traders, which is called by the natives
Begholodessy or River of the Toothless Fish. We found Akaitcho and the
hunters with their families encamped here. There were also several other
Indians of his tribe who intended to accompany us some distance into the
interior. This party was quickly in motion after our arrival and we were
soon surrounded by a fleet of seventeen Indian canoes. In company with
them we paddled up the river, which is one hundred and fifty yards wide,
and in an hour came to a cascade of five feet where we were compelled to
make a portage of one hundred and fifty-eight yards. We next crossed a
dilatation of the river, about six miles in length, upon which the name
of Lake Prosperous was bestowed. Its shores, though scantily supplied
with wood, are very picturesque.
Akaitcho caused himself to be paddled by his slave, a young man of the
Dog-Rib nation whom he had taken by force from his friends; when he
thought himself however out of reach of our observation he laid aside a
good deal of his state and assisted in the labour; and after a few days'
further acquaintance with us he did not hesitate to paddle in our
presence or even carry his canoe on the portages. Several of the canoes
were managed by women who proved to be noisy companions, for they
quarrelled frequently, and the weakest was generally profuse in her
lamentations, which were not at all diminished when the husband attempted
to settle the difference by a few blows from his paddle.
An observation near the centre of the lake gave 114 degrees 13 minutes 39
seconds West and 33 degrees 8 minutes 06 seconds East variation.
Leaving the lake we ascended a very strong rapid and arrived at a range
of three steep cascades situated in the bend of the river. Here we made a
portage of one thousand three hundred yards over a rocky hill which
received the name of the Bowstring Portage from its shape. We found that
the Indians had greatly the advantage of us in this operation; the men
carried their small canoes, the women and children the clothes and
provisions, and at the end of the portage they were ready to embark,
whilst it was necessary for our people to return four times before they
could transport the weighty cargo with which we were burdened. After
passing through another expansion of the river and over the Steep Portage
of one hundred and fifteen yards we encamped on a small rocky isle, just
large enough to hold our party, and the Indians took possession of an
adjoining rock. We were now thirty miles from Fort Providence.
As soon as the tents were pitched the officers and men were divided into
watches for the night, a precaution intended to be taken throughout the
journey, not merely to prevent our being surprised by strangers but also
to show our companions that we were constantly on our guard.