Back and Hood conjointly: Mr. Hood also
protracted the route every evening on a ruled map, after the courses and
distances had been corrected by observations for latitude and longitude
taken by myself as often as the weather would allow. The extraordinary
talent of this young officer in this line of service proved of the
greatest advantage to the Expedition, and he continued to perform that
duty until his lamented death with a degree of zeal and accuracy that
characterised all his pursuits.
The next morning our camp was in motion at five A.M., and we soon
afterwards embarked with the flattering accompaniment of a fair wind: it
proved however too light to enable us to stem the stream, and we were
obliged to resume the fatiguing operation of tracking; sometimes under
cliffs so steep that the men could scarcely find a footing, and not
unfrequently over spots rendered so miry by the small streams that
trickled from above as to be almost impassable. In the course of the day
we passed the scene of a very melancholy accident. Some years ago two
families of Indians, induced by the flatness of a small beach which lay
betwixt the cliff and the river, chose it as the site of their
encampment. They retired quietly to rest, not aware that the precipice,
detached from the bank and urged by an accumulation of water in the
crevice behind, was tottering to its base. It fell during the night and
the whole party was buried under its ruins.
The length of our voyage today was in a direct line sixteen miles and a
quarter on a South-South-West course. We encamped soon after sunset and
the tent was scarcely pitched when a heavy rain began, which continued
all night.
Sixteen miles on the 11th and five on the following morning brought us to
the commencement of Hayes River which is formed by the confluence of the
Shamattawa and Steel Rivers. Our observations place this spot in latitude
56 degrees 22 minutes 32 seconds North, longitude 93 degrees 1 minute 37
seconds West. It is forty-eight miles and a half from York Factory
including the windings of the river. Steel River, through which our
course lay, is about three hundred yards wide at its mouth; its banks
have more elevation than those of Hayes River, but they shelve more
gradually down to the stream and afford a tolerably good towing path,
which compensates in some degree for the rapids and frequent shoals that
impede its navigation. We succeeded in getting about ten miles above the
mouth of the river before the close of day compelled us to disembark.
We made an effort on the morning of the 13th to stem the current under
sail but, as the course of the river was very serpentine, we found that
greater progress could be made by tracking. Steel River presents much
beautiful scenery; it winds through a narrow but well wooded valley which
at every turn disclosed to us an agreeable variety of prospect, rendered
more picturesque by the effect of the season on the foliage, now ready to
drop from the trees. The light yellow of the fading poplars formed a fine
contrast to the dark evergreen of the spruce, whilst the willows of an
intermediate hue served to shade the two principal masses of colour into
each other. The scene was occasionally enlivened by the bright purple
tints of the dogwood, blended with the browner shades of the dwarf birch
and frequently intermixed with the gay yellow flowers of the shrubby
cinquefoil. With all these charms the scene appeared desolate from the
want of human species. The stillness was so great that even the
twittering of the whiskey-johneesh, or cinereous crow caused us to start.
Our voyage today was sixteen miles on a South-West course.
September 14.
We had much rain during the night and also in the morning, which detained
us in our encampment later than usual. We set out as soon as the weather
cleared up and in a short time arrived at the head of Steel River where
it is formed by the junction of Fox and Hill Rivers. These two rivers are
nearly of equal width but the latter is the most rapid. Mr. McDonald, on
his way to Red River in a small canoe manned by two Indians, overtook us
at this place. It may be mentioned as a proof of the dexterity of the
Indians and the skill with which they steal upon their game that they had
on the preceding day, with no other arms than a hatchet, killed two deer,
a hawk, a curlew, and a sturgeon. Three of the Company's boats joined us
in the course of the morning and we pursued our course up Hill River in
company. The water in this river was so low and the rapids so bad that we
were obliged several times in the course of the day to jump into the
water and assist in lifting the boat over the large stones which impeded
the navigation. The length of our voyage today was only six miles and
three-quarters.
The four boats commenced operations together at five o'clock the
following morning but, our boat being overladen, we soon found that we
were unable to keep pace with the others; and therefore proposed to the
gentlemen in charge of the Company's boats that they should relieve us of
part of our cargo. This they declined doing under the plea of not having
received orders to that effect, notwithstanding that the circular with
which I was furnished by Governor Williams strictly enjoined all the
Company's servants to afford us every assistance. In consequence of this
refusal we dropped behind, and our steersman, who was inexperienced,
being thus deprived of the advantage of observing the route followed by
the guide, who was in the foremost boat, frequently took a wrong channel.
The tow-line broke twice and the boat was only prevented from going
broadside down the stream and breaking to pieces against the stones by
the officers and men leaping into the water and holding her head to the
current until the line could be carried again to the shore.
