It is due to their character to mention
that they displayed much courage in encountering the dangers of the sea,
magnified to them by their novelty.
The shores between Cape Barrow and Cape Flinders, including the extensive
branches of Arctic and Melville Sounds and Bathurst's Inlet, may be
comprehended in one great gulf which I have distinguished by the
appellation of George IV's Coronation Gulf in honour of His Most Gracious
Majesty, the latter name being added to mark the time of its discovery.
The archipelago of islands which fringe the coast from Copper-Mine River
to Point Turnagain I have named in honour of His Royal Highness the Duke
of York.
It may be deserving of notice that the extremes in temperature of the
seawater during our voyage were 53 and 35 degrees, but its general
temperature was between 43 and 48 degrees. Throughout our return from
Point Turnagain we observed that the sea had risen several feet above
marks left at our former encampments. This may perhaps be attributed to
the north-west gales.
August 26.
Previous to our departure this morning an assortment of iron materials,
beads, looking-glasses, and other articles were put up in a conspicuous
situation for the Esquimaux and the English Union was planted on the
loftiest sandhill where it might be seen by any ships passing in the
offing. Here also was deposited in a tin box a letter containing an
outline of our proceedings, the latitude and longitude of the principal
places, and the course we intended to pursue towards Slave Lake.
Embarking at eight A.M. we proceeded up the river which is full of sandy
shoals but sufficiently deep for canoes in the channels. It is from one
hundred to two hundred yards wide and is bounded by high and steep banks
of clay. We encamped at a cascade of eighteen or twenty feet high which
is produced by a ridge of rock crossing the river and the nets were set.
A mile below this cascade Hood's River is joined by a stream half its own
size which I have called James' Branch. Bear and deer tracks had been
numerous on the banks of the river when we were here before but not a
single recent one was to be seen at this time. Credit however killed a
small deer at some distance inland which, with the addition of berries,
furnished a delightful repast this evening. The weather was remarkably
fine and the temperature so mild that the mosquitoes again made their
appearance, but not in any great numbers. Our distance made today was not
more than six miles.
The next morning the net furnished us with ten white-fish and trout.
Having made a further deposit of ironwork for the Esquimaux we pursued
our voyage up the river, but the shoals and rapids in this part were so
frequent that we walked along the banks the whole day and the crews
laboured hard in carrying the canoes thus lightened over the shoals or
dragging them up the rapids, yet our journey in a direct line was only
about seven miles. In the evening we encamped at the lower end of a
narrow chasm through which the river flows for upwards of a mile. The
walls of this chasm are upwards of two hundred feet high, quite
perpendicular and in some places only a few yards apart. The river
precipitates itself into it over a rock, forming two magnificent and
picturesque falls close to each other. The upper fall is about sixty feet
high and the lower one at least one hundred but perhaps considerably
more, for the narrowness of the chasm into which it fell prevented us
from seeing its bottom and we could merely discern the top of the spray
far beneath our feet. The lower fall is divided into two by an insulated
column of rock which rises about forty feet above it. The whole descent
of the river at this place probably exceeds two hundred and fifty feet.
The rock is very fine felspathose sandstone. It has a smooth surface and
a light red colour. I have named these magnificent cascades Wilberforce
Falls as a tribute of my respect for that distinguished philanthropist
and Christian. Messrs. Back and Hood took beautiful sketches of this
majestic scene.
The river, being surveyed from the summit of a hill above these falls,
appeared so rapid and shallow that it seemed useless to attempt
proceeding any farther in the large canoes. I therefore determined on
constructing out of their materials two smaller ones of sufficient size
to contain three persons for the purpose of crossing any river that might
obstruct our progress. This operation was accordingly commenced and by
the 31st, both the canoes being finished, we prepared for our departure
on the following day.
The leather which had been preserved for making shoes was equally divided
among the men, two pairs of flannel socks were given to each person, and
such articles of warm clothing as remained were issued to those who most
required them. They were also furnished with one of the officers' tents.
This being done I communicated to the men my intention of proceeding in
as direct a course as possible to the part of Point Lake opposite our
spring encampment, which was only distant one hundred and forty-nine
miles in a straight line. They received the communication cheerfully,
considered the journey to be short, and left me in high spirits to
arrange their own packages. The stores, books, etc., which were not
absolutely necessary to be carried were then put up in boxes to be left
en cache here, in order that the men's burdens might be as light as
possible.
