On the 6th we were detained in the encampment by stormy weather until
five P.M. when we embarked and paddled along the northern shore of the
inlet, the weather still continuing foggy but the wind moderate.
Observing on the beach a she-bear with three young ones we landed a party
to attack them but, being approached without due caution, they took the
alarm and scaled a precipitous rocky hill with a rapidity that baffled
all pursuit. At eight o'clock, the fog changing into rain, we encamped.
Many seals were seen this day but as they kept in deep water we did not
fire at them.
On August 7th the atmosphere was charged with fog and rain all the day,
but as the wind was moderate we pursued our journey; our situation
however was very unpleasant, being quite wet and without room to stretch
a limb, much less to obtain warmth by exercise. We passed a cove which I
have named after my friend Mr. W.H. Tinney, and proceeded along the coast
until five P.M. when we put up on a rocky point nearly opposite to our
encampment on the 3rd, having come twenty-three miles on a
north-north-west course.
We were detained on the 8th by a northerly gale which blew violently
throughout the day attended by fog and rain. Some of the men went out to
hunt but they saw no other animal than a white wolf which could not be
approached. The fresh meat being expended a little pemmican was served
out this evening.
The gale abated on the morning of the 9th and the sea, which it had
raised, having greatly subsided, we embarked at seven A.M. and, after
paddling three or four miles, opened Sir J.A. Gordon's Bay into which we
penetrated thirteen miles and then discovered from the summit of a hill
that it would be in vain to proceed in this direction in search of a
passage out of the inlet.
Our breakfast diminished our provision to two bags of pemmican and a
single meal of dried meat. The men began to apprehend absolute want of
food and we had to listen to their gloomy forebodings of the deer
entirely quitting the coast in a few days. As we were embarking however a
large bear was discovered on the opposite shore which we had the good
fortune to kill, and the sight of this fat meat relieved their fears for
the present. Dr. Richardson found in the stomach of this animal the
remains of a seal, several marmots (Arctomys richardsonii) a large
quantity of the liquorice root of Mackenzie (hedysarum) which is common
on these shores, and some berries. There was also intermixed with these
substances a small quantity of grass.
We got again into the main inlet and paddled along its eastern shore
until forty minutes after eight A.M. when we encamped in a small cove. We
found a single log of driftwood; it was pine and sufficiently large to
enable us to cook a portion of the bear which had a slight fishy taste
but was deemed very palatable.
August 10.
We followed up the east border of the inlet about twenty-four miles and
at length emerged into the opens sea, a body of islands to the westward
concealing the channel by which we had entered. Here our progress was
arrested by returning bad weather. We killed a bear and its young cub of
this year on the beach near our encampment. We heartily congratulated
ourselves at having arrived at the eastern entrance of this inlet which
had cost us nine invaluable days in exploring. It contains several secure
harbours, especially near the mouth of Back's River where there is a
sandy bottom in forty fathoms.
On the 3rd and 4th of August we observed a fall of more than two feet in
the water during the night. There are various irregular and partial
currents in the inlet which may be attributed to the wind. I have
distinguished it by the name of Bathurst's Inlet after the noble
Secretary of State under whose orders I had the honour to act. It runs
about seventy-six miles south-east from Cape Everitt but in coasting its
shores we went about one hundred and seventy-four geographical miles. It
is remarkable that none of the Indians with whom we had spoken mentioned
this inlet, and we subsequently learned that in their journeys they
strike across from the mouth of one river to the mouth of another without
tracing the intermediate line of coast.
August 11.
Embarking at five A.M. we rounded Point Everitt and then encountered a
strong breeze and heavy swell which, by causing the canoes to pitch very
much, greatly impeded our progress. Some deer being seen grazing in a
valley near the beach we landed and sent St. Germain and Adam in pursuit
of them who soon killed three which were very small and lean. Their
appearance however quite revived the spirits of our men who had suspected
that the deer had retired to the woods. It would appear from our not
having seen any in passing along the shores of Bathurst's Inlet that at
this season they confine themselves to the sea-coast and the islands. The
magpie-berries (Arbutus alpina) were found quite ripe at this place, and
very abundant on the acclivities of the hills. We also ascended the
highest hill and gained a view of a distant chain of islands extending as
far as the eye could reach, and perceived a few patches of ice still
lingering round to some of them, but in every other part the sea was
quite open.
