As it
was too late to return we encamped and, by walking across the country,
discovered the river whose mouth, being barred by low sandy islands and
banks, was not perceived when we passed it. Course and distance from
Galena Point to this encampment were South-East 3/4 South forty miles.
From the accounts of Black-Meat and Boileau at Fort Chipewyan we
considered this river to be the Anatessy, and Cape Barrow to be the
projection which they supposed to be the North-East termination of
America. The outline of the coast indeed bears some resemblance to the
chart they sketched, and the distance of this river from the Copper-Mine
nearly coincides with what we estimated the Anatessy to be from their
statements. In our subsequent journey however across the barren grounds
we ascertained that this conjecture was wrong, and that the Anatessy,
which is known to come from Rum Lake, must fall into the sea to the
eastward of this place.
Our stock of provision being now reduced to eight days' consumption it
had become a matter of the first importance to obtain a supply and, as we
had learned from Terregannoeuck that the Esquimaux frequent the rivers at
this season, I determined on seeking a communication with them here, in
the hope of obtaining relief for our present wants or even shelter for
the winter if the season should prevent us from returning either to the
Hook's party or Fort Enterprise, and I was the more induced to take this
step at this time as several deer had been seen today and the river
appeared good for fishing, which led me to hope we might support the
party during our stay if not add to our stock by our own exertions in
hunting and fishing. Augustus, Junius, and Hepburn were therefore
furnished with the necessary presents and desired to go along the bank of
the river as far as they could on the following day in search of the
natives to obtain provision and leather as well as information respecting
the coast.
They started at four A.M. and at the same time our hunters were sent off
in search of deer, and the rest of the party proceeded in the canoes to
the first cascade in the river, at the foot of which we encamped and set
four nets. This cascade, produced by a ridge of rocks crossing the
stream, is about three or four feet in height and about two hundred and
fifty yards wide. Its position by our observations in latitude 67 degrees
19 minutes 23 seconds North, longitude 109 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds
West, variation 41 degrees 43 minutes 22 seconds, dip 88 degrees 58
minutes 48 seconds. I have named this river Hood as a small tribute to
the memory of our lamented friend and companion. It is from three to four
hundred yards wide below the cascade but in many places very shallow. The
banks, bottom, and adjacent hills are formed of a mixture of sand and
clay. The ground was overspread with small willows and the dwarf birch,
both too diminutive for fuel, and the stream brought down no driftwood.
We were mortified to find the nets only procured one salmon and five
white-fish, and that we had to make another inroad upon our dried meat.
August 1.
At two this morning the hunters returned with two small deer and a brown
bear. Augustus and Junius arrived at the same time, having traced the
river twelve miles farther up without discovering any vestige of
inhabitants. We had now an opportunity of gratifying our curiosity
respecting the bear so much dreaded by the Indians, and of whose strength
and ferocity we had heard such terrible accounts. It proved to be a lean
male of a yellowish brown colour and not longer than a common black bear.
It made a feeble attempt to defend itself and was easily despatched. The
flesh was brought to the tent but, our fastidious voyagers supposing,
from its leanness, that the animal had been sickly, declined eating it;
the officers however being less scrupulous boiled the paws and found them
excellent.
We embarked at ten A.M. and, proceeding down the river, took on board
another deer that had been killed by Credit that evening. We then ran
along the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, distinguished by the name of
Banks' Peninsula in honour of the late Right Honourable Sir Joseph Banks,
President of the Royal Society and, rounding Point Wollaston at its
eastern extremity, opened another extensive sheet of water, and the
remainder of the afternoon was spent in endeavouring to ascertain from
the tops of the hills whether it was another bay or merely a passage
enclosed by a chain of islands. Appearances rather favouring the latter
opinion we determined on proceeding through it to the southward. During
the delay four more deer were killed, all young and lean. It appeared
that the coast is pretty well frequented by reindeer at this season, but
it was rather singular that hitherto we had killed none (excepting the
first) but young ones of last season which were all too lean to have been
eaten by any but persons who had no choice.
We paddled along the western shore with the intention of encamping but
were prevented by the want of driftwood on the beach. This induced us to
make a traverse to an island where we put up at midnight, having found a
small bay whose shores furnished us with a little firewood. A heavy gale
came on from the westward attended with constant rain, and one of the
squalls overthrew our tents.