Stone fox-traps and other traces of the Esquimaux were seen near the
encampment. The horizontal refraction varied so much this morning that
the upper limb of the sun twice appeared at the horizon before it finally
rose.
For the last two days the water rose and fell about nine inches. The
tides however seemed to be very irregular and we could not determine the
direction of the ebb or flood. A current setting to the eastward was
running about two miles an hour during our stay. The ice having removed a
short distance from the shore by eleven A.M. we embarked, and with some
difficulty effected a passage, then, making a traverse across Gray's
Bay,* we paddled up under the eastern shore against a strong wind. The
interpreters landed here and went in pursuit of a deer but had no
success. This part of the coast is indented by deep bays which are
separated by peninsulas formed like wedges, sloping many miles into the
sea and joined by low land to the main, so that, often mistaking them for
islands, we were led by a circuitous route round the bays. Cliffs were
numerous on the islands which were all of the trap formation.
(*Footnote. Named after Mr. Gray principal of the Belfast Academy. An
island which lies across the mouth of this bay bears the name of our
English sailor Hepburn.)
At seven, a thunderstorm coming on, we encamped at the mouth of a river
about eighty yards wide and set four nets. This stream, which received
the name of Wentzel after our late companion, discharges a considerable
body of water. Its banks are sandy and clothed with herbage. The
Esquimaux had recently piled up some drift timber here. A few ducks,
ravens, and snow-birds were seen today. The distance made was thirty-one
miles.
July 25.
We had constant rain with thunder during the night. The nets furnished
only three salmon-trout. We attributed the want of greater success to the
entrance of some seals into the mouth of the river. Embarking at six A.M.
we paddled against a cold breeze until the spreading of a thick fog
caused us to land. The rocks here consisted of a beautiful mixture of red
and gray granite, traversed from north to south by veins of red felspar
which were crossed in various directions by smaller veins filled with the
same substance.
At noon the wind coming from a favourable quarter tempted us to proceed,
although the fog was unabated. We kept as close as we could to the main
shore but, having to cross some bays, it became a matter of doubt whether
we had not left the main and were running along an island. Just as we
were endeavouring to double a bold cape the fog partially cleared away
and allowed us an imperfect view of a chain of islands on the outside,
and of much heavy ice which was pressing down upon us. The coast near us
was so steep and rugged that no landing of the cargoes could be effected
and we were preserved only by some men jumping on the rocks and thrusting
the ice off with poles. There was no alternative but to continue along
this dreary shore seeking a channel between the different masses of ice
which had accumulated at the various points. In this operation both the
canoes were in imminent danger of being crushed by the ice which was now
tossed about by the waves that the gale had excited. We effected a
passage however and, keeping close to the shore, landed at the entrance
of Detention Harbour at nine P.M., having come twenty-eight miles. An old
Esquimaux encampment was traced on this spot, and an ice chisel, a copper
knife, and a small iron knife were found under the turf. I named this
cape after Mr. Barrow of the Admiralty to whose exertions are mainly
owing the discoveries recently made in Arctic geography. An opening on
its eastern side received the appellation of Inman Harbour after my
friend the Professor at the Royal Naval College, Portsmouth, and to a
group of islands to seaward of it we gave the name of Jameson in honour
of the distinguished Professor of Mineralogy at Edinburgh.
We had much wind and rain during the night and by the morning of the 26th
a great deal of ice had drifted into the inlet. We embarked at four and
attempted to force a passage, when the first canoe got enclosed and
remained for some time in a very perilous situation: the pieces of ice,
crowded together by the action of the current and wind, pressing strongly
against its feeble sides. A partial opening however occurring we landed
without having sustained any serious injury. Two men were then sent round
the bay and it was ascertained that, instead of having entered a narrow
passage between an island and the main, we were at the mouth of a harbour
having an island at its entrance, and that it was necessary to return by
the way we came and get round a point to the northward. This was however
impracticable, the channel being blocked up by drift ice, and we had no
prospect of release except by a change of wind. This detention was
extremely vexatious as we were losing a fair wind and expending our
provision. In the afternoon the weather cleared up and several men went
hunting but were unsuccessful. During the day the ice floated backwards
and forwards in the harbour, moved by currents not regular enough to
deserve the name of tide, and which appeared to be governed by the wind.
We perceived great diminution by melting in the pieces near us.
