We Left A Canadian With Them And Proceeded, Not Without
Apprehension That They Would Follow Us And Derange Our Whole Plan By
Their Obstinacy.
Two of the officers and a party of men walked on the
shore to lighten the canoes.
The river in this part flows between high
and stony cliffs, reddish slate clay rocks, and shelving banks of white
clay, and is full of shoals and dangerous rapids. One of these was termed
Escape Rapid, both the canoes having narrowly escaped foundering in its
high waves. We had entered the rapid before we were aware and, the
steepness of the cliffs preventing us from landing, we were indebted to
the swiftness of our descent for preservation. Two waves made a complete
breach over the canoes; a third would in all probability have filled and
overset them, which must have proved fatal to everyone in them. The
powder fortunately escaped the water, which was soon discharged when we
reached the bottom of the rapid. At noon we perceived Hepburn lying on
the left bank of the river and landed immediately to receive his
information. As he represented the water to be shoal the whole way to the
rapid (below which the Esquimaux were) the shore party were directed to
continue their march to a sandy bay at the head of the fall and there
await the arrival of the canoes. The land in the neighbourhood of the
rapid is of the most singular form: large irregular sandhills bounding
both banks, apparently so unconnected that they resemble icebergs, the
country around them consisting of high round green hills. The river
becomes wide in this part and full of shoals, but we had no difficulty in
finding a channel through them. On regaining the shore party we regretted
to find that some of the men had incautiously appeared on the tops of the
hills just at the time Augustus was conversing with one of the Esquimaux,
who had again approached in his canoe and was almost persuaded to land.
The unfortunate appearance of so many people at this instant revived his
fears, and he crossed over to the eastern bank of the river, and fled
with the whole of his party. We learned from Augustus that this party,
consisting of four men and as many women, had manifested a friendly
disposition. Two of the former were very tall. The man who first came to
speak to him inquired the number of canoes that we had with us, expressed
himself to be not displeased at our arrival, and desired him to caution
us not to attempt running the rapid, but to make the portage on the west
side of the river. Notwithstanding this appearance of confidence and
satisfaction it seems they did not consider their situation free from
danger, as they retreated the first night to an island somewhat farther
down the river, and in the morning they returned and threw down their
lodges, as if to give notice to any of their nation that might arrive
that there was an enemy in the neighbourhood. From seeing all their
property strewed about, and ten of their dogs left, we entertained the
hope that these poor people would return after their first alarm had
subsided, and therefore I determined on remaining until the next day, in
the expectation of seeing them as I considered the opening of an early
communication a matter of the greatest importance in our state of
absolute ignorance respecting the sea-coast. The canoes and cargoes were
carried across the portage and we encamped on the north side of it. We
sent Augustus and Junius across the river to look for the runaways but
their search was fruitless. They put a few pieces of iron and trinkets in
their canoes, which were lying on the beach. We also sent some men to put
up the stages of fish and secure them as much as possible from the
attacks of the dogs. Under the covering of their tents were observed some
stone kettles and hatchets, a few fish spears made of copper, two small
bits of iron, a quantity of skins, and some dried salmon, which was
covered with maggots and half putrid. The entrails of the fish were
spread out to dry. A great many skins of small birds were hung up to a
stage, and even two mice were preserved in the same way. Thus it would
appear that the necessities of these poor people induce them to preserve
every article that can be possibly used as food. Several human skulls,
which bore the marks of violence, and many bones were strewed about the
ground near the encampment and, as the spot exactly answers the
description given by Mr. Hearne of the place where the Chipewyans who
accompanied him perpetrated the dreadful massacre on the Esquimaux, we
had no doubt of this being the place, notwithstanding the difference in
its position as to latitude and longitude given by him and ascertained by
our observation. We have therefore preserved the appellation of Bloody
Fall which he bestowed upon it. Its situation by our observations is in
latitude 67 degrees 42 minutes 35 seconds North, longitude 115 degrees 49
minutes 33 seconds West, variation 50 degrees 20 minutes 14 seconds East.
This rapid is a sort of shelving cascade, about three hundred yards in
length, having a descent of from ten to fifteen feet. It is bounded on
each side by high walls of red sandstone, upon which rests a series of
lofty green hills. On its north side close to the east bank is the low
rocky island which the Esquimaux had deserted. The surrounding scenery
was accurately delineated in a sketch taken by Mr. Hood. We caught forty
excellent salmon and white-fish in a single net below the rapid. We had
not seen any trees during this day's journey; our fuel consisted of small
willows and pieces of dried wood that were picked up near the encampment.
The ground is well clothed with grass and nourishes most of the shrubs
and berry-bearing plants that we have seen north of Fort Enterprise; and
the country altogether has a richer appearance than the barren lands of
the Copper Indians.
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