After representing the numerous hardships we
should have to encounter in the strongest manner, though in language
similar to what we had often heard from our friend Akaitcho, they
earnestly entreated we would be constantly on our guard against the
treachery of the Esquimaux, and no less forcibly desired we would not
proceed far along the coast, as they dreaded the consequences of our
being exposed to a tempestuous sea in canoes, and having to endure the
cold of the autumn on a shore destitute of fuel. The Hook having been an
invalid for several years rejoiced at the opportunity of consulting Dr.
Richardson, who immediately gave him advice and supplied him with
medicine.
The pounded meat and fat were converted into pemmican preparatory to our
voyage.
The result of our observations at the Hook's encampment was latitude 66
degrees 45 minutes 11 seconds North, longitude 115 degrees 42 minutes 23
seconds West, variation of the compass 46 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds
East.
We embarked at eleven to proceed on our journey. Akaitcho and his brother
the guide being in the first canoe and old Keskarrah in the other. We
wished to dispense with the further attendance of two guides and made a
proposition that either of them might remain here, but neither would
relinquish the honour of escorting the Expedition to the sea. One of our
hunters however was less eager for this distinction and preferred
remaining with Green-stockings, Keskarrah's fascinating daughter. The
other four, with the Little Singer accompanied us, two of them conducting
their small canoes in turns and the rest walking along the beach.
The river flows over a bed of sand and winds in an uninterrupted channel
of from three-quarters to a mile broad between two ranges of hills, which
are pretty even in their outline and round-backed, but having rather
steep acclivities. The immediate borders of the stream consist either of
high banks of sand or steep gravel cliffs and sometimes, where the hills
recede to a little distance, the intervening space is occupied by high
sandy ridges.
At three P.M., after passing along the foot of a high range of hills, we
arrived at the portage leading to the Bear Lake, to which we have
previously alluded. Its position is very remarkable, being at the most
westerly part of the Copper-Mine River and at the point where it resumes
a northern course and forces a passage through the lofty ridge of
mountains to which it has run parallel for the last thirty miles. As the
Indians travel from hence with their families in three days to the point
where they have proposed staying for us, the distance I think cannot
exceed forty miles and, admitting the course to be due west, which is the
direction the guide pointed, it would place the eastern part of Bear Lake
in 118 1/4 degrees West longitude.
Beyond this spot the river is diminished in breadth and a succession of
rapids are formed but, as the water was deep, we passed through them
without discharging any part of the cargoes. It still runs between high
ranges of mountains, though its actual boundaries are banks of mud mixed
with clay which are clothed with stunted pines. We picked up a deer which
the hunters had shot and killed another from the canoe, and also received
an addition to our stock of provision of seven young geese which the
hunters had beaten down with their sticks. About six P.M. we perceived a
mark on the shore which on examination was found to have been recently
put up by some Indians: and on proceeding farther we discerned stronger
proofs of their vicinity; we therefore encamped and made a large fire as
a signal which they answered in a similar way. Mr. Wentzel was
immediately sent in expectation of getting provision from them. On his
return we learned that the party consisted of three old Copper Indians
with their families, who had supported themselves with the bow and arrow
since last autumn, not having visited Fort Providence for more than a
year, and so successful had they been that they were enabled to supply us
with upwards of seventy pounds of dried meat, and six moose skins fit for
making shoes, which were the more valuable as we were apprehensive of
being barefooted before the journey could be completed. The evening was
sultry and the mosquitoes appeared in great numbers. The distance made
today was twenty-five miles.
On the following morning we went down to these Indians and delivered to
them notes on the North-West Company for the meat and skins they had
furnished, and we had then the mortification of learning that, not having
people to carry a considerable quantity of pounded meat which they
intended for us, they had left it upon the Bear Lake Portage. They
promised however to get it conveyed to the banks of this river before we
could return and we rewarded them with a present of knives and files.
After reembarking we continued to descend the river which was now
contracted between lofty banks to about one hundred and twenty yards
wide; the current was very strong. At eleven we came to a rapid which had
been the theme of discourse with the Indians for many days, and which
they had described to us as impassable in canoes. The river here descends
for three-quarters of a mile in a deep but narrow and crooked channel
which it has cut through the foot of a hill of five hundred or six
hundred feet high.
