Some of the younger women and the children had rather pleasing
countenances, but the difference between these and the more aged of that
sex bore strong testimony to the effects which a few years produce in
this ungenial climate. Most of the party had sore eyes, all of them
appeared of a plethoric habit of body; several were observed bleeding at
the nose during their stay near the ship. The men's dresses consisted of
a jacket of seal-skin, the trousers of bear-skin, and several had caps of
the white fox-skin. The female dresses were made of the same materials
but differently shaped, having a hood in which the infants were carried.
We thought their manner very lively and agreeable. They were fond of
mimicking our speech and gestures; but nothing afforded them greater
amusement than when we attempted to retaliate by pronouncing any of their
words.
The canoes were of seal-skin and similar in every respect to those used
by the Esquimaux in Greenland; they were generally new and very complete
in their appointments. Those appropriated to the women are of ruder
construction and only calculated for fine weather; they are however
useful vessels, being capable of containing twenty persons with their
luggage. An elderly man officiates as steersman and the women paddle, but
they have also a mast which carries a sail made of dressed whale-gut.
When the women had disposed of all their articles of trade they resorted
to entreaty; and the putting in practice many enticing gestures was
managed with so much address as to procure them presents of a variety of
beads, needles, and other articles in great demand among females.
It is probable these Esquimaux go from this shore to some part of
Labrador to pass the winter, as parties of them have been frequently seen
by the homeward-bound Hudson's Bay ships in the act of crossing the
Strait.
They appear to speak the same language as the tribe of Esquimaux who
reside near to the Moravian settlements in Labrador: for we perceived
they used several of the words which had been given to us by the
Missionaries at Stromness.
Towards evening the Captain, being desirous to get rid of his visitors,
took an effectual method by tacking from the shore; our friends then
departed apparently in high glee at the harvest they had reaped. They
paddled away very swiftly and would doubtless soon reach the shore though
it was distant ten or twelve miles.
Not having encountered any of the ice which usually arrests the progress
of ships in their outward passage through the Straits, and being
consequently deprived of the usual means of replenishing our stock of
water which had become short, the Captain resolved on going to the coast
of Labrador for a supply. Dr. Richardson and I gladly embraced this
opportunity to land and examine this part of the coast. I was also
desirous to observe the variation on shore as the azimuths which had been
taken on board both ships since our entrance into the Straits had shown a
greater amount than we had been led to expect; but unluckily the sun
became obscured. The beach consisted of large rolled stones of gneiss and
sienite, amongst which many pieces of ice had grounded, and it was with
difficulty that we effected a landing in a small cove under a steep
cliff. These stones were worn perfectly smooth; neither in the
interstices nor at the bottom of the water, which was very clear, were
there any vestiges of seaweed.
The cliff was from forty to fifty feet high and quite perpendicular, and
had at its base a small slip of soil formed of the debris of a bed of
clay-slate. From this narrow spot Dr. Richardson collected specimens of
thirty different species of plants; and we were about to scramble up a
shelving part of the rock and go into the interior when we perceived the
signal of recall which the master had caused to be made in consequence of
a sudden change in the appearance of the weather.
On the evening of the 19th we passed Digge's Islands, the termination of
Hudson's Strait. Here the Eddystone parted company, being bound to Moose
Factory at the bottom of the Bay. A strong north wind came on, which
prevented our getting round the north end of Mansfield; and as it
continued to blow with equal strength for the next five days we were most
vexatiously detained in beating along the Labrador coast and near the
dangerous chain of islands, the Sleepers, which are said to extend from
the latitude of 60 degrees 10 minutes to 57 degrees 00 minutes North. The
press of sail which of necessity we carried caused the leak to increase
and the pumps were kept in constant use.
A favouring wind at length enabled us on the 25th to shape our course
across Hudson's Bay. Nothing worthy of remark occurred during this
passage except the rapid decrease in the variation of the magnetic
needle. The few remarks respecting the appearance of the land which we
were able to make in our quick passage through these Straits were
transmitted to the Admiralty; but as they will not be interesting to the
general reader, and may not be sufficiently accurate for the guidance of
the Navigator, they are omitted in this narrative.
YORK FACTORY.
On the 28th we discovered the land to the southward of Cape Tatnam, which
is so extremely low that the tops of the trees were first discerned; the
soundings at the time were seventeen fathoms, which gradually decreased
to five as the shore was approached. Cape Tatnam is not otherwise
remarkable than as being the point from which the coast inclines rather
more to the westward towards York Factory.
The opening of the morning of the 30th presented to our view the
anchorage at York Flats, and the gratifying sight of a vessel at anchor,
which we recognised after an anxious examination to be the Wear.
