Thus terminated a winter's journey of eight hundred
and fifty-seven miles, in the progress of which there was a great
intermixture of agreeable and disagreeable circumstances. Could the
amount of each be balanced I suspect the latter would much preponderate;
and amongst these the initiation into walking in snowshoes must be
considered as prominent. The suffering it occasions can be but faintly
imagined by a person who thinks upon the inconvenience of marching with a
weight of between two and three pounds constantly attached to galled feet
and swelled ankles. Perseverance and practice only will enable the novice
to surmount this pain.
The next evil is the being constantly exposed to witness the wanton and
unnecessary cruelty of the men to their dogs, especially those of the
Canadians who beat them unmercifully and habitually vent on them the most
dreadful and disgusting imprecations. There are other inconveniences
which, though keenly felt during the day's journey, are speedily
forgotten when stretched out in the encampment before a large fire, you
enjoy the social mirth of your companions who usually pass the evening in
recounting their former feats in travelling. At this time the Canadians
are always cheerful and merry and the only bar to their comfort arises
from the frequent interruption occasioned by the dogs who are constantly
prowling about the circle and snatching at every kind of food that
happens to be within their reach. These useful animals are a comfort to
them afterwards by the warmth they impart when lying down by their side
or feet as they usually do. But the greatest gratifications a traveller
in these regions enjoys are derived from the hospitable welcome he
receives at every trading post, however poor the means of the host may
be; and from being disrobed even for a short time of the trappings of a
voyager and experiencing the pleasures of cleanness.
The following are the estimated distances in statute miles which Mr. Back
and I had travelled since our departure from Cumberland:
From Cumberland House to Carlton House: 263.
From Carlton House to Isle a la Crosse: 230.
From Isle a la Crosse to north side of the Methye Portage: 124.
From the Methye Portage to Fort Chipewyan: 240.
Total: 857 miles.
CHAPTER 5.
TRANSACTIONS AT FORT CHIPEWYAN.
ARRIVAL OF DR. RICHARDSON AND MR. HOOD.
PREPARATIONS FOR OUR JOURNEY TO THE NORTHWARD.
TRANSACTIONS AT FORT CHIPEWYAN.
March 26, 1820.
On the day after our arrival at Fort Chipewyan we called upon Mr.
MacDonald, the gentleman in charge of the Hudson's Bay Establishment
called Fort Wedderburne, and delivered to him Governor Williams' circular
letter which desired that every assistance should be given to further our
progress, and a statement of the requisitions which we should have to
make on his post.