A Woman's Way Through Unknown Labrador An Account Of The Exploration Of The Nascaupee And George Rivers By Mrs. Leonidas Hubbard, Junior
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Worked well.
Portaged and paddled west 4 1/2 miles. Wallace turned round again
and carried pack back to starting point. George and I carried
canoe. Sky cleared in evening. Saw all day big spruce trees.
Country here not burned I think.
Friday, September 4th. - Rain. West wind, Portaged west 1 1/2
miles, with two little lakes to help. Rain all time. Stopped to
let George scout best way to big lake ahead. Thinks it is 3 miles
away. Hope it leads to Michikamau. George and Wallace mending
moccasins. George reports big water about 3 miles ahead. Hope
Low's Northwest River lake expansions. Cannot be far now from
Michikaman. Spent much time over map in P.M. Think we must start
back 1st October to the St. Lawrence, if we can get guides.
Otherwise to Northwest River and then snowshoe out.
Saturday, September 5th. - Rain by spells. West wind, cold. Awoke
in rain. Last three nights have been as clear as crystal,
beautiful moon. Then rain in the morning. Very disappointing. We
waited a little while about getting up, hoping rain would stop.
Slackened, and we started. Poor day's work. Portaged about 2 1/2
miles west. Came out on barrens and ate lot of blue berries. Saw
big waters to west, big blue hill, blue sky-line where we hope
Michikamau lies hidden. Pint berries raw for supper. Otherwise,
venison and broth, thickened with three spoonfuls of flour, each
meal.
Sunday, September 6th. - Temp. 5 A.M. 38 degrees. First snow came,
mixed with nasty cold rain. Nasty, raw, west wind. Worked in it
most of day, portaging 2 1/2 miles N.W. Tried carrying all stuff
at one trip. Grub low. Big water ahead. Believe this big water
will lead to Michikamau. Almost a desperate hope. If it does not
and we find no water route, I scarcely see how we can reach the
caribou grounds in time to see the crossing and meet the
Nascaupees. Without that I am doubtful of the success of this
trip, and failure makes me shudder. Besides it is liable to make
us all very hungry. We must push on harder, that's all. And get
there somehow.
Monday, September 7th. - Temp. at 5 A.M. 48 degrees. N.W. wind,
slight. Rain by showers. On portage crossed worst swamp of trip.
In to my knees and fell down with heavy pack on my back.
Floundered out in nasty shape. Found small stream flowing N.W.
toward our big water. I caught about thirty trout, not big, while
Wallace and George brought up outfit and canoe by stream. Very
slow work. All very hungry in P.M. Stopped for pot of soup.
Found it getting dark and stopped to camp. Last meal of venison in
bag. Must get fish. Ate half our trout to-night, boiled and
thickened with flour. Drank last bit of cocoa. No sugar. Boys
not scared. No talk of quitting. Don't just see where we are
coming out.
Tuesday, September 8th. - Cold raw N.W. wind, no rain, partly clear.
Observation noon, 54 degrees l minute 21 seconds. Aired and dried
blankets. Followed stream down to very shoal bay of our big water,
which like the will-o'-wisp has led us on. Only ten trout, mostly
small. Weather too raw. Very depressing to have it so when meat
is out. On to caribou grounds is the watchword. Gave up trouting
and started west on our big lake. Stopped to climb mountain. Ate
some cranberries. Saw a few old caribou tracks. Big mountain to
west of us. Islands or something between, many low, flat, wooded.
Wednesday, September 9th. - BIG DAY. Warm, clear. Temp. 5 A.M. 29
degrees. Ice in cups. Slept without sweater or socks last night.
Cold but slept well. Beautiful cold crisp morning. Up at first
dawn. Inspiring, this good weather. George boiled a little bacon
and rice together, and a little flour made sort of porridge for
breakfast. Very, very good. No fish or game ahead. Went to big
hill mentioned yesterday. George and I walked about 4 miles and
back getting to its top through spruce burnings. Awful walking.
Very tired when about to top. Wondering about next meal and
thinness of soup mostly to blame, I guess. Then things began to
get good. First we ran across a flock of ten ptarmigan. They were
in the burned-over semi-barren of the hill-top. They seem to lack
entirely the instinct to preserve themselves by flying. Only ran
ahead, squatting in apparent terror every few feet. We followed
with our pistols. I killed eight and George one, my last was the
old bird, which for a time kept away from us, running harder than
the rest, trying to hide among the Arctic shrubs. George says they
are always tame on a calm day. Their wings are white, but the rest
is summer's garb. "Not rockers, but the real kind," says George.
Then we went on across the mountain top and looked west. _There
was_ MICHIKAMAU! And that's what made it a BIG DAY. A series of
lake expansions runs east from it. We can see them among flat
drift islands, cedar covered, and a ridge south, and a hill and the
high lands north, and apparently a little river coming from the
north, and pouring into the lake expansions some miles east of
Michikamau. There is one main channel running east and south, in
this expansion. It is north of the waters we are now in, and we
can see no connection. However, there looks as if there might be
one about 5 miles east of our big hill. Behind some barren ridges,
about 50 feet high. So we are making for them to see what we can
find. If no connection, we must portage, but we will not mind a
little portage now, with Michikamau waters just over it. Westward
from our hill are dozens of little lakes, and a good deal of low
burned land.
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