A Woman's Way Through Unknown Labrador An Account Of The Exploration Of The Nascaupee And George Rivers By Mrs. Leonidas Hubbard, Junior
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Followed One West To Mountains; It
Turned To A Brook, Ended In Mountains.
Other went so much east
they fear it ends in lakes there.
Think maybe they lost the river.
Hungry as bears. Stayed out to explore this east branch. The
three days' inaction and their story of doubtful river, depressed
me. If the way to Michikamau is still so doubtful, after more than
four weeks of back-breaking work, when will we get there, and when
to the caribou grounds, and when home? I'd like to be home to-
night and see my girl and the people, and eat some bread and real
sweet coffee or tea or chocolate. How hungry I am for bread and
sweets!
Sunday, August 16th. - Wind has changed at last to north. Not much
of it. Clear and bright in early morning. Clouded at noon, so I
am not sure my observation was just right, close to it though I
think. 53 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds. Have been coming nearly
west, an angle to south and another to north. Last observation
possible was two weeks ago to-day. Feel fine to-day. Good rest
and good weather and grub are bully. Figure that east branch the
boys saw must be Low's Northwest River, and must break through the
mountains somewhere a little north. Anyway it can't run much east
and must take us north and west through lake expansions close to
the mountains. Then if it ends, it's up to us to portage over to
the lake expansions Low sees on his Northwest River flowing out of
Michikamau. Scraped flesh from caribou skin.
Monday, August 17th. - Temp. at 4.30 A.M. 29 degrees. Temp. noon 59
degrees. Ice on cups. First of season. Beautiful, clear day,
north wind, slight. Flies bad in P.M. Went west of north 3 miles,
following river to where it began to expand into lakes. Noon
observation 53 degrees 43 minutes 19 seconds. Yesterday's
observation wrong I think. In A.M. fished few minutes at foot of
short rapids. About forty trout, one 16 inches long, biggest yet.
Caught most on fins. Ate all for noon lunch, stopping at sand-
beach on shore of very pretty little lake expansion. Had coffee
too. In P.M. we turned west into some long narrow lakes, that
extend into mountains, and have a current coming out. George and
Wallace think from a previous look, that here is a portage trail to
Michikamau's southeast bay. George explored while I worked at
skin. George returned. No good so far as he saw, to cross here,
but he did not do the thing thoroughly. However, I'll let it drop,
for I believe the river goes east and north, and then west and
breaks through mountains to Michikamau. Worried some. Time short
and way not clear, but we'll get there if we have to take the canoe
apart and walk across. May have to stay late on the George, and
have to snowshoe to Northwest River and then across; but if it
comes to that we'll do it. This snowshoe to Northwest River and
then across to the St. Lawrence, by Kenamon and St. Augustine
Rivers, appeals to me. Lots of old wigwams about, summer and
winter. Stove was used in one. I think Indians hunted here.
Caribou tracks on barren mountains.
Tuesday, August 18th. - Temp. 28 degrees at 4 A.M. Clear sky in
morning. Much worried last night and this morning, about way to
Michikamau. Started early, ready to go at the job harder than
ever. Lake expansions, rapids, no signs of Indians. Afraid this a
bad stretch which Indians avoided. Stopped at 10 A.M. for tea.
Caught fourteen big trout there, in few minutes. Then river opened
into long narrow lakes, and the going was bully. It turned west,
or we did (it came from the west) and went into the mountains, and
we fairly shouted for joy. George saw caribou. Turned out to be
geese. Chased ahead them on bank. Shot old goose as she lay low
in water, swimming and hiding. Broke old one's wing and took off
leg. Then missed four shots. Gander took to woods. George took
after young and killed one with pistol. Came and helped get
wounded goose. Great chase. Trout, pounders, jumping like greedy
hogs to fly. Took about fifty while boys were making two short
portages in P.M. Bread, small loaf, coffee, sugar, goose, trout
for supper. Big feed in celebration geese and good water. At end
of to-day's course turned to right into wrong channel, into little
narrow lake half mile long, prettiest I ever saw. Big barren bluff
rises from water on north, barren mountains a few miles to west,
ridge of green to west, sun setting in faces to contrast and
darken, two loons laughing, two otters swimming in lake. One
seemed afraid and dived; other more bold, looked at us. Hoped to
kill it to settle question of species, but did not get near enough.
Good water ahead. Hope we are on the road to Michikamau.
Wednesday, August 19th. - Noon 53 degrees 50 minutes. Bright, clear
in A.M. Southeast wind brought clouds. Began to rain as we went
to bed. Spent whole day river hunting, paddling from arm to arm of
the lakes. George and I climbed high barren ridge. Red berries
and a few blue berries. Flock ptarmigan, rockers. I shot three
with pistol, old one, two young, but could fly. Saw more mountains
on all sides. Many lakes to east. Failure to find river very
depressing to us all. Seems to end in this chain of lakes. Will
retrace our way to last rapid to be sure, and failing to find
stream, will start west up a creek valley on a long portage to
Michikamau. Boys ready for it. I fear it will make us late, but
see no other way. Glad Wallace and George are game. A quitter in
the crowd would be fierce.
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