Probably
belonged to poor M'Lean, who was drowned. Had cup of tea at 10.
Stopped at noon three-quarters of an hour for observation.
Northwest River runs through spruce-covered valley, between high
hills, easily seen from lake, but not in river as spruce is too
close. In many places high banks, many turns, many little rapids.
Water low. Have to pole and track. See that we have our work cut
out. Doubt if we can make more than 10 miles a day up this river.
I took tracking line; George and Wallace the poles. Sand flies
awful - nasty, vindictive, bite out chunks, and streak our hands and
faces with blood. Mosquitoes positively friendly by contrast.
Tried net. Could not see, then tried dope - some help. Eating much
and not rustling for fish or game. Want to lighten outfit.
Friday, July 17th. - Rain and clouds. Rained hard in the night.
Awoke dreading to start out in it. Got breakfast to let George
sleep. Water so shoal and swift that we would take part of outfit
and return for the rest. Most places had to track, I pulling on
rope while Wallace and George waded, and pushed and dragged the
canoe.
Saturday, July 18th. - Bright, clear day. Lat. 53 degrees 45
minutes 30 seconds. Started out with full load and kept it most of
the day. Had to portage half load a few times. Awful work all
day. Rapids continuously. I waded with line while George and
Wallace dragged and lifted. All enjoyed the forenoon's work, and
no one depressed when P.M. weariness began. No game. Bear and
some caribou tracks. Have not seen a partridge or porcupine. Seem
to be few fish. They come later and farther on.
Sunday, July 19th. - Minimum temp. last night 38 degrees. Fine day
and warm. Stayed in camp all day to rest. I got up at 7 and
caught about twenty trout, small. All pretty tired and enjoyed the
long sleep. At noon George and I started up the river, following
the hills. Found small rocky stream coming in about 1 mile up.
Suppose it is the Red Wine River. Two miles up a 2-mile stretch of
good water. Best of all the portage route leading in at the foot.
We followed this over the hill to the Red Wine River, and found old
cuttings. This pleases us a heap. It shows that we are on the old
Montagnais trail, that we will probably have their portage routes
clear through, and that they probably found lakes and good water
farther up, or they would never have fought this bad water. To-
morrow we will tackle the 2-mile portage with light hearts. We are
3 miles south of where Low's map places us. Am beginning to
suspect that the Nascaupee River, which flows through Seal Lake,
also comes out of Michikamau, and that Low's map is wrong. Bully
stunt if it works out that way. Saw lots of caribou and fresh bear
tracks. Trout went fine for supper. Flies very bad. Our wrists
burn all the time.
Monday, July 20th. - Minimum temp. last night 37 degrees. Bright
day. Flies awful. I got breakfast while George cut portage
through swamp, and then we groaned all day - through the swamp 1 1/2
miles - across two streams, up steep hill, then along old trail to
foot of smooth water above these rapids. Covered route mainly
three times. All very tired. George worked like a hero.
Tuesday, July 21st. - Minimum temp. 36 degrees. Trapped bad three-
quarter mile. George and I scouted ahead 6 miles. Climbed hills
600 feet high. Caribou and bear tracks. Crossed two or three
creeks. Found old trail and wigwam poles and wood. George says
winter camp from size of wood; can't follow it. Tracked quarter
mile more, and started on long portage. Went half mile and camped.
Flies bad; gets cold after dark, then no flies. Stars, fir tops,
crisp air, camp fire, sound of river, hopeful hearts. Nasty hard
work, but this pays for it.
Wednesday, July 22nd. - Minimum temp. 33 degrees, 60 degrees in tent
at 6 A.M. Torture. All work to cross 2 1/2 mile portage. Sun
awful. Flies hellish. All too tired to eat at noon. Cold tea and
cold erbswurst. Cached 80 rounds 45-70 cartridges, 300-22s. too
heavy. Too tired at last to mind flies. Rested hour under tent
front, all of us. Diarrhoea got me - too much water drinking
yesterday I guess. Shot partridge, first seen on trip. Jumped up
on log before me, waited for me to drop pack and load pistol. Camp
on partridge point. Bird seasoned a pot of erbswurst. Dreamed
about home as I worked and rested.
Thursday, July 23rd. - George and Wallace scouted for trails and
lakes. I lay in tent, diarrhoea. Took Sun Cholera Mixture. Tore
leaves from Low's book and cover from this diary. These and
similar economies lightened my bag about 5 lbs. New idea dawned on
me as I lay here map gazing. Portage route leaves this river and
runs into southeast arm of Michikamau. Will see how guess turns
out. Heat in tent awful - at noon 104 degrees; out of tent at 1
P.M. 92 degrees. Diarrhoea continued all day. No food but tea and
a bit of hard-tack. George back about 7.30. Wallace not back.
Not worried. Has probably gone a little too far and will stay out.
Has tin cup and erbswurst. George reports branching of river and a
good stretch of calm water.
Friday, July 24th. - George produced yellowlegs shot yesterday. He
carried pack up river 2 miles. Diarrhoea. In tent I studied how
to take time with sextant. Observation failed. Much worried over
Wallace till he came in about 7 P.M. Compass went wrong; he lay
out overnight. Stewed yellowlegs and pea meal to-night.
Saturday, July 25th. - Four miles. Weak from diarrhoea.