Travels In The United States Of America; Commencing In The Year 1793, And Ending In 1797. With The Author's Journals Of His Two Voyages Across The Atlantic By William Priest
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_Oct. 29th_. - Favourable accounts from Philadelphia: the late cold
weather has entirely stopped the progress of the disorder.
_November 26th_.
Set out for Annapolis, and arrived there in health, the 29th, at five in
the afternoon.
* * * * *
_Annapolis, 17th December, 1793._
DEAR FRIEND,
The bay of Chesapeak is one of the largest in the world. From it's
entrance, between capes Henry and Charles, to the mouth of the Susquana,
which forms the head of the bay, the distance is two hundred and eighty
miles, through which great extent of water the tide ebbs and flows. This
bay receives into it's bosom the following rivers; viz. the Patomac, the
Rappahanock, the Patapsico, the York, the James, the Severn, and the Elk,
beside innumerable creeks, and small streams. On an inlet from this bay,
about two hundred miles from it's entrance from the Atlantic, stands
Annapolis, the capital of the state of Maryland, so called in honour of
queen Anne, as appears from the following extract from their charter: -
"Anne, by the grace of God, queen of Great Britain, &c....
"To all, and singular, our faithful subjects within our province of
Maryland, greeting.... Whereas there is a pleasant and commodious place
for trade ... laid out for a town, and port, and called Annapolis, in
honour of us."
This city was intended for the emporium of the province; and surely no
spot ever _seemed_ better calculated for a town of trade and commerce. Far
to the south, and in one of the most pleasant and healthy situations in
America; as the seat of government, being the greatest, and indeed then
_only_ mercantile town in the province; the bay of Chesapeak, and adjacent
rivers, wafting the tobacco and other produce of the country to this mart
at a trifling expense; a harbour where ships might ride at anchor in
perfect security, and where wharfs, with sufficient depth of water for a
vessel of eight hundred tons, might be formed with very little trouble:
but unfortunately these advantages were rendered abortive by the bite of a
small insect; the worms are so troublesome in these waters, that a vessel
lying in this harbour during the summer months will be as full of holes as
a honey-comb. Baltimore, a town on a similar inlet from the bay, about
thirty miles hence, being free from this plague, (by having a great
proportion of fresh water from the Patapsico in it's harbour) has drawn
all the trade from the _capital_: the Annapolians have now but _one_
square-rigged vessel belonging to their port, while their rivals have many
hundreds, and drive a brisk trade to the four quarters of the globe.
Annapolis is whimsically laid out, the streets verging from each other,
like rays from a centre. It is still the seat of government; and it's
state-house is by much the best building I have seen in America. This
little city is now the retreat of some of the best families in the
state. The inhabitants in general are passionately fond of theatrical
entertainments, and received us with a degree of kindness and hospitality
which claims our warmest acknowledgments. I spend my time here very
agreeably. The politeness, ease, and conviviality of the Annapolians form
a strong and pleasing contrast to the behaviour of the stiff, gloomy and
unsocial bigots I was lately surrounded with in the Jerseys. Next to
Virginia, this state was the most famous for tobacco-plantations; but the
people now find the culture of wheat more profitable, as well as less
injurious to the soil. No plant impoverishes the earth so much by it's
growth as tobacco; many plantations, owing to successive crops of this
_weed_, are what is here called _worn out_; formerly, when their land was
in this state, instead of endeavouring to bring it round by a few fallow
years and manure, as in England, they immediately cleared a fresh tract.
They now begin to use manure, and have discovered a very extraordinary
kind; viz. antediluvian oyster-shells, large beds of which are found
a few feet beneath the surface of the earth in several parts of the
state[Footnote: See Bartram's Account of a similar Bed in Georgia,
page 213.]: these being laid on the land, are, by the effect of the
air, crumbled into dust in a few days, and fertilize the earth in an
astonishing degree. - Farewell. - Conclude me
Yours very sincerely, &c.
_Philadelphia, 27th February, 1794._
DEAR FRIEND,
On the fourth instant I left Annapolis on my way to this city. After
travelling eight miles, we passed through a long and dreary wood; here we
met two negroes conveying a coffin on a sort of sledge. On inquiry, one of
them informed us, the coffin contained the corpse of his mother; that on
the death of his old master, his parents were sold to different planters,
which his father took so much to heart, that he died soon after; his
mother only survived him about five months; and they were now complying
with her last request, which was, to be carried to a plantation about
eight miles thence, and there buried with her husband. There seemed a
great degree of dejection in the poor fellow's countenance; and I could
not help telling him, by way of consolation, that his father and mother
were gone to a better place, where there was no distinction of colour, and
where no white man would dare again to part them; but as _words_ are
_wind_, we agreed to administer some more _solid_ consolation, which the
black man received with a look of gratitude, then cast his eye towards his
mother's corpse, and shed a silent tear. Why was not _Sterne_ present at
this scene?
I slept at an inn, about twenty miles from Annapolis, where we supped in
the American fashion on fried squirrels and coffee, the former excellent.
_Feb. 5th_. - Arrived at Baltimore, and hired a caravan with four
horses, which is here called a stage:
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