The White Wooden Houses On The Hill-Sides, And The
Broad Fields Of Yellow Grain, Set Off The Dark Wood; And The River - Its
Bay, Fronting The Point Of Land On Which The City Is Placed, Covered
With Sails And Glistening In The Sun - Mellows The Landscape Most
Exquisitely.
Quebec, as seen from the river, too, has a fine commanding
aspect.
The Citadel crowning the height does not give so great an
appearance of extent or strength as it possesses. In reality, Gibraltar
preeminent over all, it is one of the most impregnable strongholds in
the world; and its underground works, I am told, are so extensive that
5,000 men may be garrisoned and hidden within the bowels of the earth
beneath it. Visitors are not allowed to walk on the west ramparts; and
on complaining of this to a distinguished military officer, I was
assured that the workmen, who are still employed in the excavations
below, are taken in blindfold - that the engineer officer alone knows
the form and shape of the works in progress, and that the plan of the
remainder is kept sealed up in the hands of the commandant, to be
opened only in case of actual need. This is mystery with a vengeance,
and but for the authority from whence I received the statement, I
should doubt the fact - most decidedly.
"The lower town of Quebec stands upon the river bank, beneath the
almost perpendicular face of rock, surmounted by the Citadel. It is
old, and the houses are principally of wood, and ultra-French in
appearance. The streets are narrow and not over clean. To reach the
upper town you drive up a very precipitous road, or walk up a long
flight of timber steps, which shorten the steepest portion of the way.
The upper town is built on the acclivity and on the slopes of the hill-
side, which slide down to the river St. Charles, to the north. The fire
of 1845 improved the town, by clearing out miserable old wooden
dwellings; and the buildings erected on the site are of good brick or
stone. Since these fires, too, it has been forbidden to build houses of
wood, within the walls; and the use of shingles for roofing has been
prohibited. The roofs are mostly covered with tin, which shines and
glares in the sun at mid-day, but reflects the morning light very
pleasantly.
"The Protestant and Catholic Cathedrals are fine buildings, as are the
new Catholic church outside the suburbs, the Catholic seminary, and
many other edifices. But the narrow streets, steep ascents, and ancient
buildings, take away all beauty from the town itself, delightful as is
its situation, and beautiful as are the vistas and views from various
parts of it.
"A pilgrimage to the Plains of Abraham, about a mile from the Citadel,
which consist of the high tableland between the St. Lawrence and the
St. Foix road and St. Charles river, was to me a traveller's duty.
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