"Many Of The Public Buildings Of Montreal Are Excellent.
The Bon
Secours Market is a very fine building, and puts many of ours at home
to shame.
The Jesuits' College is large and sombre; and some of the
convents and institutions are well worth a visit, both as buildings and
as institutions of the place.
"In the country little progress appears; but you see no misery, and
much comfort and joyfulness. Indeed, these French settlers seem happy
upon their small properties, surrounded by their old customs, and in
the enjoyment of the fetes and holidays which their religion allows.
They look upon the rush of improvement with calmness, though often with
a sort of incredulity as to the agency by which it is brought about,
and the righteousness of its existence. 'Mais, croyez-vous que le bon
Dieu permettra tout cela?' said one of them on seeing a train move
along, dragged by no visible horseflesh, and propelled without birds'
wings. They are quite a contrast to their American neighbours, who have
often suggested that Lower Canada might go ahead if the French
population were 'improved off the face of the earth.'
"The priests set a good example of taking matters enjoyably and
peacefully: their country farm outside Montreal, at the foot of the
mountain, for example. The house is situated so as to command a
beautiful view of the basin of the St. Lawrence, which, on a fine day,
shows its river gliding on with broad tranquil surface, peacefully
towards the sea, and exhibits the gardens, woods, and orchards, which
cover the country with a fertile and smiling landscape. The grounds are
large and well planted; and the rude gaze of the multitude is shut out
by a high wall, which extends half round the farm itself. Here the good
fathers come for a few days at a time, and in turns, to recruit
exhausted nature, and spend their hours in exercise and reading. Fine
old fellows! we need not envy them; but rather hope that all men may
some day have as many of the means of quiet and simple happiness to
resort to.
"The short summer of Lower Canada causes great activity in business
during the 'seasons.' The summer and autumn are therefore the times of
business; the short interval between them the time for visits to the
seaside, or to Saratoga, or the Caledonia Springs; while the winter,
with its snow and ice and long endurance, brings round a continuous
carnival of pleasant racket, and is really the season of society
amongst all ranks of the people. I heard magnificent accounts of the
balls, parties, sleighings, and country frolics, which take place; also
of the walking expeditions far out into the wilds, with snow shoes,
tents to sleep in, and Indian attendants; and of the wild sport in
hunting the moose-deer, and other tenants of the wood - during this
winter season. Some of the English agents spend five business months in
Canada, and all the rest of the year in England, going home in November
and returning in April.
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