I Was Amused To See How Little Was Made
Of The Affair By Any Of The Passengers.
In England a delay of three
hours would in itself produce a great amount of grumbling, or at
least many signs of discomfort and temporary unhappiness.
But here
no one said a word. Some of the younger men got out and looked at
the ruined wheel; but the most of the passengers kept their seats,
chewed their tobacco, and went to sleep. In all such matters an
American is much more patient than an Englishman. To sit quiet,
without speech, and ruminate in some contorted position of body
comes to him by nature. On this occasion I did not hear a word of
complaint - nor yet a word of surprise or thankfulness that the
accident had been attended with no serious result. "I have got a
furlough for ten days," one soldier said to me, "and I have missed
every connection all through from Washington here. I shall have
just time to turn round and go back when I get home." But he did
not seem to be in any way dissatisfied. He had not referred to his
relatives when he spoke of "missing his connections," but to his
want of good fortune as regarded railway traveling. He had reached
Baltimore too late for the train on to Harrisburg, and Harrisburg
too late for the train on to Pittsburg. Now he must again reach
Pittsburg too late for his further journey. But nevertheless he
seemed to be well pleased with his position.
Pittsburg is the Merthyr-Tydvil of Pennsylvania - or perhaps I should
better describe it as an amalgamation of Swansea, Merthyr-Tydvil,
and South Shields. It is, without exception, the blackest place
which I ever saw. The three English towns which I have named are
very dirty, but all their combined soot and grease and dinginess do
not equal that of Pittsburg. As regards scenery it is beautifully
situated, being at the foot of the Alleghany Mountains, and at the
juncture of the two rivers Monongahela and Alleghany. Here, at the
town, they come together, and form the River Ohio. Nothing can be
more picturesque than the site, for the spurs of the mountains come
down close round the town, and the rivers are broad and swift, and
can be seen for miles from heights which may be reached in a short
walk. Even the filth and wondrous blackness of the place are
picturesque when looked down upon from above. The tops of the
churches are visible, and some of the larger buildings may be
partially traced through the thick, brown, settled smoke. But the
city itself is buried in a dense cloud. The atmosphere was
especially heavy when I was there, and the effect was probably
increased by the general darkness of the weather. The Monongahela
is crossed by a fine bridge, and on the other side the ground rises
at once, almost with the rapidity of a precipice; so that a
commanding view is obtained down upon the town and the two rivers
and the different bridges, from a height immediately above them.
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