The Secessionists Had Destroyed The Railway Bridge Over
The Green River, And Were Now Lying At Bowling Green, Between The
Green River And Nashville.
This place it was understood that they
had fortified.
Matters were in this position when we got a military pass to go down
by the railway to the army on the Green River, for the railway was
open to no one without a military pass; and we started, trusting
that Providence would supply us with rations and quarters. An
officer attached to General Buell's staff, with whom however our
acquaintance was of the very slightest, had telegraphed down to say
that we were coming. I cannot say that I expected much from the
message, seeing that it simply amounted to a very thin introduction
to a general officer to whom we were strangers even by name, from a
gentleman to whom we had brought a note from another gentleman whose
acquaintance we had chanced to pick up on the road. We manifestly
had no right to expect much; but to us, expecting very little, very
much was given. General Johnson was the officer to whose care we
were confided, he being a brigadier under General McCook, who
commanded the advance. We were met by an aid-de-camp and saddle-
horses, and soon found ourselves in the general's tent, or rather in
a shanty formed of solid upright wooden logs, driven into the ground
with the bark still on, and having the interstices filled in with
clay. This was roofed with canvas, and altogether made a very
eligible military residence. The general slept in a big box, about
nine feet long and four broad, which occupied one end of the shanty,
and he seemed in all his fixings to be as comfortably put up as any
gentleman might be when out on such a picnic as this. We arrived in
time for dinner, which was brought in, table and all, by two
negroes. The party was made up by a doctor, who carved, and two of
the staff, and a very nice dinner we had. In half an hour we were
intimate with the whole party, and as familiar with the things
around us as though we had been living in tents all our lives.
Indeed, I had by this time been so often in the tents of the
Northern army, that I almost felt entitled to make myself at home.
It has seemed to me that an Englishman has always been made welcome
in these camps. There has been and is at this moment a terribly
bitter feeling among Americans against England, and I have heard
this expressed quite as loudly by men in the army as by civilians;
but I think I may say that this has never been brought to bear upon
individual intercourse. Certainly we have said some very sharp
things of them - words which, whether true or false, whether deserved
or undeserved, must have been offensive to them. I have known this
feeling of offense to amount almost to an agony of anger. But
nevertheless I have never seen any falling off in the hospitality
and courtesy generally shown by a civilized people to passing
visitors, I have argued the matter of England's course throughout
the war, till I have been hoarse with asseverating the rectitude of
her conduct and her national unselfishness. I have met very strong
opponents on the subject, and have been coerced into loud strains of
voice; but I never yet met one American who was personally uncivil
to me as an Englishman, or who seemed to be made personally angry by
my remarks. I found no coldness in that hospitality to which as a
stranger I was entitled, because of the national ill feeling which
circumstances have engendered. And while on this subject I will
remark that, when traveling, I have found it expedient to let those
with whom I might chance to talk know at once that I was an
Englishman. In fault of such knowledge things would be said which
could not but be disagreeable to me; but not even from any rough
Western enthusiast in a railway carriage have I ever heard a word
spoken insolently to England, after I had made my nationality known.
I have learned that Wellington was beaten at Waterloo; that Lord
Palmerston was so unpopular that he could not walk alone in the
streets; that the House of Commons was an acknowledged failure; that
starvation was the normal condition of the British people, and that
the queen was a blood-thirsty tyrant. But these assertions were not
made with the intention that they should be heard by an Englishman.
To us as a nation they are at the present moment unjust almost
beyond belief; but I do not think that the feeling has ever taken
the guise of personal discourtesy.
We spent two days in the camp close upon the Green River, and I do
not know that I enjoyed any days of my trip more thoroughly than I
did these. In truth, for the last month since I had left
Washington, my life had not been one of enjoyment. I had been
rolling in mud and had been damp with filth. Camp Wood, as they
called this military settlement on the Green River, was also muddy;
but we were excellently well mounted; the weather was very cold, but
peculiarly fine, and the soldiers around us, as far as we could
judge, seemed to be better off in all respects than those we had
visited at St. Louis, at Rolla, or at Cairo. They were all in
tents, and seemed to be light-spirited and happy. Their rations
were excellent; but so much may, I think, be said of the whole
Northern army, from Alexandria on the Potomac to Springfield in the
west of Missouri. There was very little illness at that time in the
camp in Kentucky, and the reports made to us led us to think that on
the whole this had been the most healthy division of the army.
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