The Historical
Society, At New York, Has One Or Two Of Them.
In and about the
front of the Capitol there are other efforts of sculpture - imposing
in their size, and assuming, if not affecting, much in the attitudes
chosen.
Statuary at Washington runs too much on two subjects, which
are repeated perhaps almost ad nauseam: one is that of a stiff,
steady-looking, healthy, but ugly individual, with a square jaw and
big jowl, which represents the great general; he does not prepossess
the beholder, because he appears to be thoroughly ill natured. And
the other represents a melancholy, weak figure without any hair, but
often covered with feathers, and is intended to typify the red
Indian. The red Indian is generally supposed to be receiving
comfort; but it is manifest that he never enjoys the comfort
ministered to him. There is a gigantic statue of Washington, by
Greenough, out in the grounds in front of the building. The figure
is seated and holding up one of its arms toward the city. There is
about it a kind of weighty magnificence; but it is stiff, ungainly,
and altogether without life.
But the front of the original building is certainly grand. The
architect who designed it must have had skill, taste, and nobility
of conception; but even this is spoiled, or rather wasted, by the
fact that the front is made to look upon nothing, and is turned from
the city. It is as though, the facade of the London Post-office had
been made to face the Goldsmiths' Hall. The Capitol stands upon the
side of a hill, the front occupying a much higher position than the
back; consequently they who enter it from the back - and everybody
does so enter it - are first called on to rise to the level of the
lower floor by a stiff ascent of exterior steps, which are in no way
grand or imposing, and then, having entered by a mean back door, are
instantly obliged to ascend again by another flight - by stairs
sufficiently appropriate to a back entrance, but altogether unfitted
for the chief approach to such a building. It may, of course, be
said that persons who are particular in such matters should go in at
the front door and not at the back; but one must take these things
as one finds them. The entrance by which the Capitol is approached
is such as I have described. There are mean little brick chimneys
at the left hand as one walks in, attached to modern bakeries, which
have been constructed in the basement for the use of the soldiers;
and there is on the other hand the road by which wagons find their
way to the underground region with fuel, stationery, and other
matters desired by Senators and Representatives, and at present by
bakers also.
In speaking of the front I have spoken of it as it was originally
designed and built. Since that period very heavy wings have been
added to the pile - wings so heavy that they are or seem to be much
larger than the original structure itself. This, to my thinking,
has destroyed the symmetry of the whole. The wings, which in
themselves are by no means devoid of beauty, are joined to the
center by passages so narrow that from exterior points of view the
light can be seen through them. This robs the mass of all oneness,
of all entirety as a whole, and gives a scattered, straggling
appearance, where there should be a look of massiveness and
integrity. The dome also has been raised - a double drum having been
given to it. This is unfinished, and should not therefore yet be
judged; but I cannot think that the increased height will be an
improvement. This, again, to my eyes, appears to be straggling
rather than massive. At a distance it commands attention; and to
one journeying through the desert places of the city gives that idea
of Palmyra which I have before mentioned.
Nevertheless, and in spite of all that I have said, I have had
pleasure in walking backward and forward, and through the grounds
which lie before the eastern front of the Capitol. The space for
the view is ample, and the thing to be seen has points which are
very grand. If the Capitol were finished and all Washington were
built around it, no man would say that the house in which Congress
sat disgraced the city.
Going west, but not due west, from the Capitol, Pennsylvania Avenue
stretches in a right line to the Treasury chambers. The distance is
beyond a mile; and men say scornfully that the two buildings have
been put so far apart in order to save the secretaries who sit in
the bureaus from a too rapid influx of members of Congress. This
statement I by no means indorse; but it is undoubtedly the fact that
both Senators and Representatives are very diligent in their calls
upon gentlemen high in office. I have been present on some such
occasions, and it has always seemed to me a that questions of
patronage have been paramount. This reach of Pennsylvania Avenue is
the quarter for the best shops of Washington - that is to say, the
frequented side of it is so, that side which is on your right as you
leave the Capitol. Of the other side the world knows nothing. And
very bad shops they are. I doubt whether there be any town in the
world at all equal in importance to Washington which is in such
respects so ill provided. The shops are bad and dear. In saying
this I am guided by the opinions of all whom I heard speak on the
subject. The same thing was told me of the hotels. Hearing that
the city was very full at the time of my visit - full to overflowing -
I had obtained private rooms, through a friend, before I went
there. Had I not done so, I might have lain in the streets, or have
made one with three or four others in a small room at some third-
rate inn.
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