We Visited The
River In October, And I Must Presume That They Who Seek It Solely
For The Sake Of Scenery Should Go There In That Month.
It was not
only that the foliage of the trees was bright with every imaginable
color, but that the grass was bronzed and that the rocks were
golden.
And this beauty did not last only for awhile, and then
cease. On the Rhine there are lovely spots and special morsels of
scenery with which the traveler becomes duly enraptured. But on
the Upper Mississippi there are no special morsels. The position
of the sun in the heavens will, as it always does, make much
difference in the degree of beauty. The hour before and the half
hour after sunset are always the loveliest for such scenes. But of
the shores themselves one may declare that they are lovely
throughout those four hundred miles which run immediately south
from St. Paul.
About half way between La Crosse and St. Paul we came upon Lake
Pepin, and continued our course up the lake for perhaps fifty or
sixty miles. This expanse of water is narrow for a lake, and, by
those who know the lower courses of great rivers, would hardly be
dignified by that name. But, nevertheless, the breadth here
lessens the beauty. There are the same bluffs, the same scattered
woodlands, and the same colors. But they are either at a distance,
or else they are to be seen on one side only.
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