It Is A Fine City, Like All Other American
Cities Of Its Class.
The streets are broad, the "blocks" are high,
and cars on tramways run all day, and nearly all night as well.
CHAPTER XII.
BUFFALO TO NEW YORK.
We had now before us only two points of interest before we should
reach New York - the Falls of Trenton, and West Point on the Hudson
River. We were too late in the year to get up to Lake George,
which lies in the State of New York north of Albany, and is, in
fact, the southern continuation of Lake Champlain. Lake George, I
know, is very lovely, and I would fain have seen it; but visitors
to it must have some hotel accommodation, and the hotel was closed
when we were near enough to visit it. I was in its close
neighborhood three years since, in June; but then the hotel was not
yet opened. A visitor to Lake George must be very exact in his
time. July and August are the months - with, perhaps, the grace of
a week in September.
The hotel at Trenton was also closed, as I was told. But even if
there were no hotel at Trenton, it can be visited without
difficulty. It is within a carriage drive of Utica, and there is,
moreover, a direct railway from Utica, with a station at the
Trenton Falls. Utica is a town on the line of railway from Buffalo
to New York via Albany, and is like all the other towns we had
visited. There are broad streets, and avenues of trees, and large
shops, and excellent houses. A general air of fat prosperity
pervades them all, and is strong at Utica as elsewhere.
I remember to have been told, thirty years ago, that a traveler
might go far and wide in search of the picturesque without finding
a spot more romantic in its loveliness than Trenton Falls. The
name of the river is Canada Creek West; but as that is hardly
euphonious, the course of the water which forms the falls has been
called after the town or parish. This course is nearly two miles
in length; and along the space of this two miles it is impossible
to say where the greatest beauty exists. To see Trenton aright,
one must be careful not to have too much water. A sufficiency is
no doubt desirable; and it may be that at the close of summer,
before any of the autumnal rains have fallen, there may
occasionally be an insufficiency. But if there be too much, the
passage up the rocks along the river is impossible. The way on
which the tourist should walk becomes the bed of the stream, and
the great charm of the place cannot be enjoyed. That charm
consists in descending into the ravine of the river, down amid the
rocks through which it has cut its channel, and in walking up the
bed against the stream, in climbing the sides of the various falls,
and sticking close to the river till an envious block is reached
which comes sheer down into the water and prevents farther
progress.
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