A Good Many Wooden Houses, Two Or Three
Churches (I Think The Congregations Must Be Very Small In Each), And
On
Sunday morning all the inhabitants were out in their best, the men
loafing and smoking about, and quite smart-
Looking young ladies showing
their finery with great enjoyment, as they do at home. A mounted police
officer drove a pair of good horses to meet some of his men, and there
are cavalry barracks here for them. The train twice a week from Winnipeg
is their only communication with the outer world, so when it arrives
everyone, even from long distances, crowds the platform. We always take
a walk at these resting places, but it is nervous work to go far, as the
train starts without any notice, and they never keep to the time named.
_Wednesday, September 25th_. - After leaving Calgary, which I
forgot to say is near a coal mine (Mr. de Winton, son of Sir Francis,
has a ranch near), and is likely to be an important place some day, we
went to Laggan, which is well into the mountains, and there we saw
Professor George Ramsay, brother of Sir James, and he told us to get
hold of the contractor, Mr. Ross, who would help us about going further
on. The railway people, &c., all said to our great disgust that ladies
would not be allowed to go down the steep incline to British Columbia;
upon this we found out Mr. Boss, and he kindly consented to take us down
the Pacific slope in his own car. At first the boys said I had better
remain behind in our own car, but I felt that if there was a risk I
would rather encounter it with them, and I wanted to see more of the
country, so we prepared to start on Monday, but it poured, and Mr. Ross
would not go till Tuesday. We took a small bag with night-gown, brush
and comb, &c., and left the rest of our goods in charge of the odious,
but I think honest, David, and started yesterday morning in Mr. Ross's
car, in some respects a more convenient one than ours, for it has a
writing table and a stove in the sitting room after an early breakfast
at half-past seven. It was a glorious sunny day. We had two engines
reversed, one before and one behind, and no end of brakes with safety
'switches,' every now and then to be turned on and to send us up hill if
the engines ran away with us, and we crept down very slowly. It was very
exciting, and the scenery magnificent, vistas of snowy mountains opening
continually as we turned the corners, covered with brilliant yellow and
red and purple foliage; and when we came to the foot of Mount Stephen
(called after Mr. George Stephen, of Montreal), Mr. Ross said, "we ought
to call one mountain Rayleigh." I exclaimed, "Oh, yes! There is a
beautiful snow one which has been in sight all the way coming down, let
that be Raleigh." And so it was agreed, and E - - and I sketched
it. - Afterward Mr. Ross, said, "Rayleigh has quite a family after him,"
a curious succession of gradually decreasing tops, and we agreed that
they should be _his five brothers_. At one place we went down to a
bridge, very high over a river, and I thought, "it would be unpleasant
if the engine runs away here," but curiously enough I was not at all
nervous, for I felt so much care was taken, and it was a glorious day,
and the scenery lifted one's soul above the small things of life
_here_, and made one think of Him who created all these wonders,
and yet became our human friend and sympathizer, and now lives to give
us bye and bye even "greater things than these!" At last we got to the
_Flats_ all safe, and then John and Dick walked to the end of the
"construction," about five miles. If one was prepared to ride and rough
it exceedingly, one could reach the Pacific in ten days, but ladies
could not undergo the hardships, and we would not be left alone. Mr.
Ross informed us that we must return soon to Kicking Horse Lake and
Laggan, as there would be no train later. However, we said that John was
extremely anxious to see the working of the line at the end, and it
would be a great pity for him not to have the time, and "_could_ we
stay the night?" He replied, "certainly." Hedley and E - - walked on at a
great pace after the other two, beyond my powers, and I sauntered on
quietly alone, only meeting a few men, belonging to the railway in most
cases and working on the line, which is the only _road_ which one
can walk on comfortably here, and I got three miles, but then a horrid
bridge stopped me, as I hate walking on planks far apart over a height
without a helping hand. I have been all along struck with the far
superior accent and good English of the working men in America (Canada
especially); they have often very good features, too, and wear a
well-shaped moustache, and meet one with a smile. They treat one as
equals, but they are not at all rude, and are always willing to help. I
spoke to some in my solitary walk, and only that they were hard at work
hammering in nails, &c., I should have liked to "tell them a story."
They all returned from end of "construction" on a truck train, Dick and
E - - on an open car, and Hedley and John in the cab of the engine. We
then dined; such a fat coloured man Mr. Ross has in his car! He could
hardly squeeze through the narrow passages, but he managed to give us
something to eat. Mr. Ross received a telegram later to say Mr. Angus,
our host at Montreal, Mr. Donald Smith, both directors of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, Mr. Cyrus Field, &c., &c., were at Calgarry, and wanted
to _come on_, so all is arranged for them, and they are expected
soon, and we hope to return with them this afternoon to Laggan, to our
own car.
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