They Did Not, However, Understand
Why The Ocean Water Should Be Salt, While The Rain From It Is Fresh.
The Soil, They Said, For The Plants To Grow On Is Formed By The
Washing Of The Rain On The Rocks And Gradually Accumulating.
The
grinding action of ice in this connection they had not recognized.
Gliding on and on, the scenery seemed at every turn to become
more lavishly fruitful in forms as well as more sublime in
dimensions - snowy falls booming in splendid dress; colossal domes and
battle meets and sculptured arches of a fine neutral-gray tint, their
bases raved by the blue fiord water; green ferny dells; bits of
flower-bloom on ledges; fringes of willow and birch; and glaciers
above all. But when we approached the base of a majestic rock like
the Yosemite Half Dome at the head of the fiord, where two short
branches put out, and came in sight of another glacier of the first
order sending off bergs, our joy was complete. I had a most glorious
view of it, sweeping in grand majesty from high mountain fountains,
swaying around one mighty bastion after another, until it fell into
the fiord in shattered overleaning fragments. When we had feasted
awhile on this unhoped-for treasure, I directed the Indians to pull
to the head of the left fork of the fiord, where we found a large
cascade with a volume of water great enough to be called a river,
doubtless the outlet of a receding glacier not in sight from the
fiord.
This is in form and origin a typical Yosemite valley, though as yet
its floor is covered with ice and water, - ice above and beneath, a
noble mansion in which to spend a winter and a summer! It is about
ten miles long, and from three quarters of a mile to one mile wide.
It contains ten large falls and cascades, the finest one on the left
side near the head. After coming in an admirable rush over a granite
brow where it is first seen at a height of nine hundred or a thousand
feet, it leaps a sheer precipice of about two hundred and fifty feet,
then divides and reaches the tide-water in broken rapids over
boulders. Another about a thousand feet high drops at once on to the
margin of the glacier two miles back from the front. Several of the
others are upwards of three thousand feet high, descending through
narrow gorges as richly feathered with ferns as any channel that
water ever flowed in, though tremendously abrupt and deep. A grander
array of rocks and waterfalls I have never yet beheld in Alaska.
The amount of timber on the walls is about the same as that on the
Yosemite walls, but owing to greater moisture, there is more small
vegetation, - bushes, ferns, mosses, grasses, etc.; though by far the
greater portion of the area of the wall-surface is bare and shining
with the polish it received when occupied by the glacier that formed
the fiord.
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