El Tovar,
above, is six thousand eight hundred and sixty-six feet, and we have thus
descended four thousand four hundred and thirty feet, nearly a mile, from
rim to river. And what a river it is! No one can form any idea of it,
unless he stands on the very brink, almost deafened by the sound of its
sullen roar and turbulent rapids. It is hungry, insatiable, murderous,
cruel. Many a foolish mortal has had the breath dashed from his body by
these powerful waves. Those who wish to cross to the other side can defy
danger in the cable crossing, but only a skilled boatman should attempt to
row across.
Colorado Salmon. Fish are caught in the river here at times. The chief
variety is a scale-bearing fish, of silvery appearance, commonly known to
the local dwellers as Colorado salmon. Specimens have been caught two feet
eight inches in length, and sixteen inches in circumference, and a
fortunate fisherman brought one up to El Tovar, which was nearly three feet
in length.
Camping at the River. It is a delightful experience to remain over night
and sleep on the river sand, especially if the moon be at its full. Then
one sees great walking shadows - moving, living, palpable entities. Towers
and buttes and temples take on new qualities under the softer luminary of
the night.
