This Is Not Surprising When One Considers The High
Altitudes.
The weather is then sometimes quite frigid, but it is a dry cold
which rapidly yields to the warm midday sun.
Do not imagine from this
general statement that winter, as we know it in the East, is the usual
thing at the Canyon. Quite the reverse. There are more sunshiny, warm,
windless, stormless and no-snow days than otherwise, taking one year with
another. Real winter weather often stays away until well into January. Some
years it is a negligible quantity. At no time need it be feared by the
traveller.
Trails in Winter. The trails for half a mile, or even a mile, down into the
Canyon, during a part of the winter, are sometimes covered with light snow.
As soon as the snow line is passed, the climate begins to change. The cold
is less penetrating, and by and by one enters what might be called a
temperate zone. Warmer and more comfortable it becomes, until, on reaching
the river, the word "delicious" alone conveys the rich sense of
satisfaction that one feels all over the body in the delightful sensation
experienced. No time is so agreeable for a long stay in the depths of the
Canyon as in the heart of winter. A semi-tropical climate below, while
above, within three hours easy ride, a snowy winter may be reigning
supreme!
Winter in the Canyon. Robert Brewster Stanton, who made his successful trip
through the Canyon in wintertime, comments on this as follows: "It has been
the fortune of but few to travel along the bottom of the great chasm for a
whole winter, while around you bloom the sweet flowers, and southern birds
sing on almost every bush, and at the same time far above, among the upper
cliffs, rage and roar, like demons in the air, the grandest and most
terrific storms of wind and snow and sleet that I have ever witnessed, even
above the clouds among the summit peaks of the Rocky Mountains."
Change in the Flora. This climatic diversity above and below is noticeable
all through the year to the man or woman of sharp eyes, in the difference
of the flowers, the shrubs, and the trees. Above are the pines, the cedars,
and junipers of the cooler climes. The further down one goes, the greater
the change becomes. The pines drop out, then the cedars and junipers, and
when one reaches the patches of growth in the lowest depths, the agave, and
other plants and flowers that we find only in semi-tropical climates here
grow profusely.
Indian Garden. Another difference between the "above" and the "below" is
found in the fact that a garden is almost unknown on the rim, and that
there are many down below. On the Bright Angel Trail is the Indian Garden,
where, for many years, the Havasupais used to cultivate their corn, beans,
onions and melons. Along the Shinumo, on the north side, Mr. Bass has a
garden where all these things grow; where peaches, plums, grapes, and
apricots have thriven abundantly, and where now he is planting figs,
lemons, oranges and grape-fruit.
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