There Has Been Some Attempt On The
Part Of Students Who Are Familiar With The Country To Locate The Spot Where
Cardenas And His Men Gazed Down Into The Depths Of The Canyon Of The
Colorado River.
The long distance travelled, according to Castaneda's
narrative, was totally unnecessary to bring the Spaniards to the banks of
the river.
Twenty days' journey, through a desert region, away from Tusayan
in the direction of the Colorado River, would have brought them as far down
as Yuma or Mohave. But at these points there is no canyon. It is well known
that the Canyon system terminates near the Great Bend, some miles beyond
the Grand Wash, hence this could not have been the objective point of the
guides of Cardenas.
Dellenbaugh's Opinion. Dellenbaugh, in his "Romance of the Colorado River,"
argues that the Tusayan of Castaneda could not have been the land of the
Hopis, for, as he truthfully remarks, "an able-bodied man can easily walk
to the brink of the Marble Canyon from there in three or four days." He
also says that it has usually been stated, without definite reason, that
Cardenas reached the Grand Canyon about opposite Bright Angel River, or
near the spot where El Tovar Hotel now stands. I have never heard this
statement made by any one who has any knowledge either of Castaneda's
narrative, or of the relative locations of the Hopi towns and the Grand
Canyon.
Evidently a Hopi Stratagem. The Hopis of to-day, with whom I have talked,
insist upon it that Cardenas was taken to the barren and desolate point
near the junction of Marble Canyon, the Little Colorado Canyon and the
Grand Canyon. Here, the river may be said to come from the northeast and
turn toward the south-southwest, and the conditions are not at all like
those described by the historian. But if one accepts this modern statement
of the Hopis, he is met with the questions: Why make Cardenas travel fifty
leagues to see an inaccessible river that could be reached in three or four
days? Did Cardenas really travel fifty leagues? I do not know, but I hazard
the conjecture that the Hopis gave Cardenas as much wandering about as they
could, took him to this terribly bleak and barren spot where even to-day
one can scarcely prevail upon a Hopi or Navaho to guide him, in order that
he might be discouraged from making further explorations in the
neighborhood. The Hopis had no use for explorers or strangers. They had
suffered too much from foes, for too many decades, to welcome any one who
seemed eager to possess anything of theirs, and, in my judgment, their
treatment of Cardenas was a deliberate ruse to get rid of him. They had a
trail over which they habitually traveled, that brought them to
Huetha-wa-li, the White Rock Mountain, - opposite Bass Camp, - and on to the
Havasupai villages. Several times a year they went to and fro over this
trail. It crosses the Little Colorado where it would have been easy to show
the Spaniards the Salt Spring, to which Castaneda later refers. There is
another point on the river, some miles beyond Bass Camp, where the Hopis
used to visit the Havasupais, and that is just beyond the Great Curve,
where the river may be said to flow from the northeast to the
southsouthwest. But both at Bass Camp and at this point, the Havasupais had
made trails down to the river, of the existence of which the Hopis may, or
may not, have known. So I freely confess that, as yet, I have not settled
in my own mind at what point Cardenas and the Spaniards gazed into the
depths of the Great Canyon.
Alarcon's Discovery of Colorado River. While the main portion of Coronado's
army had been advancing eastward, a sea force sent out to cooperate with
Coronado, under Alarcon, had sailed up the Gulf of California, and had
entered the Colorado River, thus solving the problem of its exit into the
Gulf. To Alarcon, belongs the discovery of the Colorado River, which he
named the Buena Guia. He went up the river twice in boats, the second time
ascending possibly as high as a hundred miles above the mouth of the Gila.
Finally he entered "between certain very high mountains, through which this
river passeth with a straight channel, and the boats went up against the
stream very hardly for want of men to draw the same." He claims to have
passed above this place undoubtedly one of the lesser canyons of the
Colorado found below the Needles, where the Santa Fe Railway crosses the
river - and here magicians tried to destroy him and his party by setting
magic reeds in the water on both sides. Of course this failed, but Alarcon
decided to go no further. Here he erected a very high cross, on which was
carved a statement to the effect that he had reached this spot, so that if
Coronado's men should find it, they would know he had ascended the river
thus far.
Town of San Hieronimo is Established. In the mean time, a small force of
seventy or eighty of the weakest and least reliable of the men of
Coronado's army was left in September, 1540, at a town which Cabeza de Vaca
had named Corazones, or hearts, because the people there fed him on the
hearts of animals. Coronado's plan was to establish a town here, which he
or his lieutenant in charge of this portion of the army called San
Hieronimo de los Corazones. These men and the care of the new settlement
were left to Melchior Diaz, with orders to protect the road between Cibola
and New Spain, and also to attempt to find some means of communicating with
the vessels under Alarcon. Diaz, with twenty-five selected men, started for
the seacoast, went to the Gulf, across to the coast, back again up the
river, where he found Alarcon's cross, and eventually returned to San
Hieronimo, there to meet with death by an accident.
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