Towards the northwest the vista
terminates behind the projecting mass of Powell's Plateau. But again to the
westward may be seen the crests of the upper walls reaching through the
Kanab and Uinkaret Plateaus, and finally disappearing in the haze above
Seventy-five miles away.
"The space under immediate view from our standpoint, fifty miles long and
ten to twelve wide, is thronged with a great multitude of objects so vast
in size, so bold and majestic in form, so infinite in their details, that
as the truth gradually reveals itself to the perceptions, it arouses the
strongest emotions."
Several times I had started to Point Sublime, but there were difficulties
about the trail. Sometime before 1900, Mr. Bass completed a trail on the
north side of the river, up under the shoulders of Powell Plateau and out
to the desired location.
Starting for Point Sublime. In August, 1901, a party was arranged,
consisting of Mrs. J. B. Gayler, of Ridgewood, New Jersey, a learned doctor
from St. Louis, Mr. Bass and myself. On Sunday, September 1st, after
loading three pack animals with provisions and bedding needed for the trip,
we set out down the trail, headed for Point Sublime. To the ferry nothing
of particular interest occurred.
From this point on I shall use the diary of Mrs. Gayler as the basis of my
descriptions, adding thereto or condensing when necessary. It is written in
the present tense, which will be preserved throughout.
At the River. She says: "The sight of the river rouses me to a considerable
pitch of enthusiasm. How dirty and muddy a river it is, and how it roars
and rages. There is a great rapid a quarter of a mile above where we cross.
While we are to cross in still water, the current is strong and bears one
on to the worst rapid in the whole river. It is named Stanton Rapid, for at
that point one of his boats was dashed to splinters. He numbered it No.
241.
"We part with our animals near a little shelter at the top of the Archaean
rocks and scramble down a slippery trail.
Crossing the River. "With some trepidation I enter the boat; a few articles
are thrown in, Dad takes the oars, some one pushes us off and we are fairly
on the stream. The boat soon strikes the sandy landing on the other side, a
considerable distance below, and Dad hands me out with care and courtesy. I
occupy myself looking at the structure of the rocks. There are many curious
faults and flexures. The river very strange; walls black, gloomy and
precipitous. The landing on the south side was solid rock, here a bit of
sandy beach between bars of rock. The Doctor is already here. He makes a
fire of driftwood near the wall of black rock under which is the stretch of
sand. I pick out my sleeping place and begin the making of my bed.
"James, Bass and Dad go back and forth across the river many times to bring
our stuff, and daylight is entirely gone long before the job is completed.
Supper on the Sand. "I try to help in carrying things up the bank but am
too tired to be of much use. Gather wood for fire. The men had prepared
supper by firelight, which we take crouching, sitting or lying down on the
sand. The air is mild and soft.
Moonlight. "Monday, Sept. 2, 1901. 3 A.M. Writing by moonlight. The roar of
the rapids is constant. One hears it even in sleep. There are occasionally
little swirling, flapping noises. What a wonderful place for me - a quiet,
New Jersey woman - to be sleeping in.
To the Shinumo. "When Mr. Bass awakes he shows me a large pool of river
water in the rocks. It has settled and is clear and cold. After breakfast,
the doctor and I scramble up the rocky trail to the plateau above, mount
two of the burros and start for the Shinumo Camp. It is 6:30 when we
start - quite early I should call it - and we reach camp at 8.00 A. M. A
stiff climb nearly all the way.
"What a clear mountain torrent the Shinumo is. It is like our Eastern
creeks. Its rocky sides are lined with willows or other green trees and it
comes splashing and dashing down as pure and sweet as can be.
Shinumo Camp and Garden. "The camp is a novelty to me. Part tent, part
wood, part rock, - part indoors, part outdoors. The fireplace is of stone
and out of doors, and the table is a great slab of red sandstone resting on
two heavy rock supports. It would hold a ton. There are two good beds.
Across the stream a little way down is the Shinumo garden. It seems
incredible that there can be a garden here with excellent melons,
cantaloupes, radishes, onions, corn, squash, beans, and with fair-sized
peach and other trees. They tell me it is a prehistoric garden and that it
was discovered by following the ruins of ancient irrigating ditches down to
the spot. In the wall beyond are several small cliff-dwellings and storage
houses for corn and other vegetables. There are tremendous tilts and
flexures in the rock walls on each side.
"Mr. Bass and Dad go off to hunt for the horses and mules we are to use on
the trip. The burros will not travel fast enough, though they are going to
put me on a large burro they name Belshazzar.
"After lunch each spends the afternoon as he chooses. Mr. James invites me
to come and visit a snuggery that he has established, where I find him
writing. He reads what he has written, also part of Browning's 'Rabbi Ben
Ezra.'
"Tuesday, Sept.
