For a few moments let us look at each of these plateaus, and grasp such
features as the eyes may observe.
Grand Scenic Divide and Dick Pillar. Grand Scenic Divide was so named
because it is the point where the granite of the Inner Gorge disappears
from the Grand Canyon, and this disappearance makes as vast and wonderful a
difference in the Canyon scenery as it is possible to find in its whole two
hundred and seventeen miles of length. To the right of the Divide,
looking eastward, where the granite is still in evidence, one can see the
temples, buttes and towers that make the view from El Tovar and Grand View
Points so interesting. Looking westward, the whole aspect changes, so
markedly, indeed, that one scarcely can believe it to be the same Canyon.
Hence the appropriateness of the name. At the extreme end of this plateau,
a detached rocky pillar stands peering down into the deepest recesses of
the Inner Gorge. This bears the name Dick Pillar, from Robert Dick, the
baker-geologist of Thurso, Scotland, who gave such material assistance to
Hugh Miller in his studies of the Old Red Sandstone.
Huxley Terrace. Huxley Terrace is the center plateau. At its end is an
eroded mass of red sandstone, to which the name of the noted naturalist and
evolutionist, Wallace, has been attached. Still nearer the end, and
belonging to the marble wall, is a pagoda named Tyndall Dome.
Spencer Terrace. Spencer Terrace is the most western of the plateaus, and
is where the Mystic Spring used to be, which for many years gave its name
to Bass's Trail - the Mystic Spring Trail.
These three plateaus vary in width from a quarter of a mile to over a mile
wide; they are dotted with what seem to be patches of grass, but which in
reality are juniper and pinion trees from ten to forty feet in height.
Terraces of the Explorers. About a quarter of a mile to the west of Bass
Camp is the amphitheatre in which my earlier book, "In and Around the Grand
Canyon," and a large part of the present book were written. From this
restful spot I have looked out thousands of times across the great bend of
the river and Garnet Canyon to the five terraces named after the early-day
Spanish explorers, Marcos, De Vaca, Tovar, Alarcon, and Garces.
Points of the Explorers. To the west stands out Chemehuevi Point, six
thousand six hundred and twenty-six feet, while across the river,
terminating Powell Plateau, are Wheeler Point, six thousand seven hundred
and fifty feet, and just beyond it Ives Point, six thousand six hundred
feet.
To the north of Ives Point, but hidden from view, are Beale Point, six
thousand six hundred and ninety-five feet, Thompson Point, six thousand
seven hundred and thirty feet, and Newberry Point, six thousand seven
hundred and fifty feet, all named after early Arizona explorers and
geologists.
Conquistadore Aisle and Steamboat Mountain. The dark chasm of the river
itself, where it moves almost due west, has been named Conquistadore Aisle,
in honor of the men whose names are attached to the terraces above. Here
the river again curves, and its course is seen to be to the northeast, as
if doubling behind Powell Plateau. It then turns back upon itself, and goes
to the southwest. If the conditions are favorable, one may see, to the left
of Ives Point, a majestic butte, detached from the further wall of the
Canyon, and generally known as Steamboat Mountain. It is an object of great
interest, when seen from the saddle on the north rim by those who have
crossed the Canyon and are journeying to Point Sublime.
The Scenic Divide. Now let the observer compare the view to the left with
that which he has carefully examined on the right. There, in the latter
view, are towers and buttes, detached monuments, and a perfect bewilderment
of scenic features; here, to the left, save for the aisles, terraces and
further wall, there is little to attract attention. The view,
comparatively, is uninteresting. The reason for this is clear. The granite
of the Inner Gorge has disappeared. Here is the Scenic Divide, the natural
line of demarcation between two distinctive portions of the Canyon, the
scenery of which is markedly diverse. Where the granite is in evidence, the
stratified rocks resting upon it are carved into varied forms: Where the
river flows through the stratified rocks, and no granite appears, there are
few or no buttes, no towers, no monuments. Nowhere else, in the accessible
portions of the Canyon, is this difference seen, for at Grand View, the
head of the old Hance Trail, the Red Canyon Trail, Boucher's and the Bright
Angel Trails, the outlooks are over areas where the granite has thrust
itself out of the bowels of the earth.
Bass's Cable Crossing. The ride down Bass's Trail is an interesting one,
passing on the way two prehistoric water-pockets and several
cliff-dwellings. On the plateau below, forty miles of trail riding, almost
on the level, may be indulged in, before one descends the narrow Canyon to
Bed Rock Camp and the river. Here a ferry and cable crossing have been
established, the former for use during low water, while, after the flood
season begins, the latter enables travelers and stock to make a safe
passage in the cage suspended from the cable.
CHAPTER XII. Across The Grand Canyon To Point Sublime
Point Sublime. Point Sublime is one of the most important promontories on
the north rim. It was here that the geologist-poet, Clarence Dutton, wrote
many of his descriptions of Canyon scenery. He says: "The supreme views are
to be obtained at the extremities of the long promontories, which jut out
between the recesses far into the gulf.
