The new trail is being built on the most approved engineering
lines. It is four feet wide all the way, with a low protecting wall of rock
on the outside, and is most carefully laid out. Cuts in the solid rock,
likewise heavy stone walls built up as a support, are used wherever
necessary for greater safety. It descends by easy grades and long zigzags
for nearly five hundred feet to the top of the red limestone, where from
wide shelves views may be obtained safely of the narrow cleft far down in
which Hermit Creek flows. Further descent is made by easy steps to a level
stratum, which is traversed by the trail on its way to the river; and the
Canyon on either hand seems rapidly to open out, revealing wonders of
scenic beauty. The northern extremity of the red sandstone under Pima Point
is thus reached and on both sides of the river such a stupendous panorama
is at once opened up that even superlatives cannot describe it. Under Yuma
Point, on the left, an ornately sculptured butte, already seized by Moran,
Leigh and other discerning artists as a piece de resistance, compels the
eye.
On this point one may linger for hours, if time permits, and as the
changing lights bring into prominence different mural features, or the
moving clouds cast their revealing shadows on first one, then another, of
the temples and towers, the reverent beholder feels that he is on holy
ground. It is indeed superlative in color, in shadow, in form, in majesty,
in variety and in general effect.
On the Plateau. The trail from this point descends to the plateau and
continues to the river. A rest house is to be established providing ample
accommodations both for eating and sleeping. This will be the first
provision near the river for all travelers, - those who wish hotel luxuries
and comforts as well as those who desire the experience of camp equipment.
All the way down, the strong scenic features of the Canyon remain in
evidence, and the depths traversed by the trail but enhance their glory and
beauty, as their outlines are projected against the perfect turquoise of
the Arizona sky. Before returning to the rim one may wish to take advantage
of the opportunity to spend some hours exploring for himself the foot of
the greatwalls near by, or studying the geological formations.
Mountain Sheep. Perchance, also, one may see a band of mountain sheep, for
now that they are so strictly preserved, a heavy penalty being exacted both
by the state and federal governments for killing one, they are increasing
in numbers. One of their usual haunts for years has been in the canyons and
ravines north of Shiva Temple. It is not unreasonable to anticipate that
they will often roam into view of visitors so near by on the other side of
the river.
Hermit Trail Loop. On the return journey, provision is to be made for a
choice of several routes, viz: up the Boucher Trail, which is on the other
side of Hermit Basin; along the Tonto Trail just above the river, westward
to Bass's and up the Bass Trail; or eastward to the Indian Garden, and up
the Bright Angel Trail which route is known as the Hermit Trail Loop.
CHAPTER XI. From El Tovar To Bass Camp And Down The Bass Trail
Bass Station and Bright Angel Wash. Leaving El Tovar (elevation six
thousand eight hundred and sixty-six feet), the road winds for over, five
miles through the Coconino Forest, mainly following the railway track until
Bass Station appears (elevation six thousand four hundred and seventeen
feet). The road now enters a narrow defile known as the Bright Angel Wash,
giving one a fine opportunity to learn the singular drainage system of the
Canyon plateau, which, as has been explained elsewhere, is away from the
Canyon for many miles. The Wash is picturesque and rugged, the side walls
occasionally appearing as bare masses of rock, and again covered with
fertile soil on which grow great pines, also ferns, mosses and flowers. The
road is fairly easy, and the horses travel well. Six and a half miles away,
the Coconino (Kohonino) Wash is passed on the left. A little further on,
the Canyon widens somewhat, and a rude meadow, occasionally filled with
rich and luscious natural grass, is crossed, after which the road makes a
slight ascent to the plateau, and more open country is reached.
Over the Plateau. From this point, the ride is diversified. There are no
steep hills, but the road aims directly for its objective point, taking the
visitor through growths of pinion, - from which the Indians gather the
delicious pine nuts, - juniper, - from the crushed berries of which they make
a sweet and refreshing drink, - and over levels where rich grama grass grows
side by side with the cactus, the amole and the yucca, brightened and
vivified by the Indian paintbrush, sunflowers, lupines and scores of other
gorgeously colored flowers.
Midway between Bass Station and Bass Camp, ten miles each way, the road
passes a United States Geological Survey monument, which records the fact
that here the plateau is six thousand three hundred and seventy-two feet
above sea level.
The Surrounding Mountains. On the journey, glimpses are had of the San
Francisco peaks, and Mounts Sitgreaves, Kendricks, and Floyd, while, in the
far-away west and south, the blue ridges of the plateau, descending to the
lower levels, are clearly discernible. To the north and west, Mounts Emma
and Trumbull and other peaks of the Uinkarets appear like deep blue clouds
on the horizon. They lie on the further side of the Canyon, and are seen
more distinctly from Bass Camp.
Hotouta Amphitheatre. When fifteen miles from El Tovar, the first gaze into
the Canyon is afforded at Hotouta Amphitheatre, a deep indentation in the
walls of the south rim.
