Shiva's Temple Is Almost Directly Opposite, As We Look Towards
The Northeast.
Stretches of the river are exposed east and west, where
raging rapids send up their roar to us.
Overhead is a great castellated
structure, surmounted by a lesser building, with a round tower,
embattlements and all the architectural accompaniments of an elaborately
equipped castle of ancient Europe. An attempt to describe all the objects
seen in the heart of the Canyon is needless. Suffice it to say that the
panorama takes in every tower, temple, butte and structure, seen from Point
Sublime on the north side; or any of the points on the south side, from
Havasupai Point on the east, to Yavapai Point on the west; and includes
Wotan's Throne, Vishnu Temple, and the wall of the Little Colorado to the
faraway east.
On the Lower Trail to the River. The trail then winds under Yuma Point, and
zigzags down the thinner strata of the red sandstones on to the red-wall
limestones, where it affords more extended views on a lower plateau of
lesser area, the rocky butte on the end of which is named Bunker Hill
Monument. From this plateau another rapid descent is made through masses of
rock to the bed of Long (or Boucher) Creek, where, at the distance of about
a mile from the river, is located the lower camp. Here Boucher has planted
a garden of all kinds of vegetables, and with seventy-five trees, which
include oranges, figs, peaches, pears, apricots, apples, nectarines, and
pomegranates; he boasts of his melons, canteloupes, beets, onions,
tomatoes, chile, carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, etc., and I can vouch for
the sweet and refreshing qualities of his melons. Tomatoes, ripe and green,
covered his vines in January, and he has them throughout the year. It needs
no comment to explain how delightful fresh vegetables are, after one has
made this trail trip, especially if it should be in the hot summer months.
Good and comfortable beds and other camp accommodations are provided here,
so that a stop may be made over night. In the morning, the river is
visited, and the return trip accomplished in easy time for dinner. The
distance from rim to river has not been measured, but it is estimated to be
from eight to ten miles.
Boucher also has a copper mine, rich in mineral. He claims that it is a
continuation of the copper ledge of Bass's mine, and is possibly the same
deposit that continues east to the Canyon Copper Company's mine on the
Berry Trail.
The return trip can be made over various routes, including the ascent of
Bass or Bright Angel Trails, but a majority of visitors will wish to return
by way of Hermit Trail, across Hermit Basin from Boucher Trail. In that way
they will get the experience of using two trails with their different
outlooks and a journey across the plateau down in the Canyon, as well as a
drive back to El Tovar on Hermit Rim Road.
CHAPTER VII. How Fully To See And Know The Grand Canyon Region
Advantages of Camping Trips. The suggestions in this chapter are mainly for
the strenuous and strong, though this by no means excludes members of the
gentle sex. Many women and girls - some who have never before been on
horseback - have made these extended trips, even those that have required
weeks of rough camping. For detailed particulars of the scenery, those
interested are referred to the various chapters devoted to the respective
trails. The transportation department at El Tovar is under the control of
competent men, and is thoroughly well equipped to send visitors on
prolonged camping trips with everything needed for a week, a month, or six
months. It is merely a question of time and meeting the necessary expense.
On the occasion of my last visit to El Tovar, a small party of both sexes
was equipped and started out for a trip to last fully three weeks.
Reference to the chapter entitled "Across the Grand Canyon to Point
Sublime," mainly written as her diary by an elderly lady, will give the
ideas of a woman who had next to no previous experience of the hardships,
as well as the immediate enjoyments of such a trip. But no one can estimate
the continual source of delight and pleasure the memories of such a trip
are to those who have resolutely faced and overcome the merely temporary
discomforts entailed. The experiences with the burros, the surprises of the
scenery, the exquisite delight of the perfect rest and dreamless sleep one
enjoys, after the first few nights of novelty are worn off, the
satisfaction of seeing and knowing much of the most sublime piece of
natural scenery on earth, are compensations and satisfactions enough.
Down Bright Angel Trail. After one has gained the slight knowledge of the
Canyon afforded by the easier trips described, let him plan to make the
following as "a starter" in his more thorough investigation. With a good
guide, pack animals carrying a full equipment of sleeping, cooking and
eating necessities, plenty of water in canteens, one or two extra canvasses
in case of rain, a note-book, and pencils or fountain pen, a compass and
barometer for altitude readings, and the United States Geological Survey
maps of the region, one is ready to make a "good start." Descend the
Bright Angel Trail to the river, study the formations all the way down; get
a clear idea of the relative positions of the strata, and learn to detect
them by the individualistic appearances of wall, temple, butte, etc.; and
examine the so-called cliff-dwellings hidden away in the Tonto sandstones
before descending on the gneiss into Pipe Creek Canyon. Arrived at the
river, spend a day there investigating the peculiar foldings and tiltings
of the Algonkian strata. Sleep, as did Powell and his men for weeks, on the
sands of the Colorado River, with the noise of the rapids ever in your
ears.
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