Personal Narrative Of Travels To The Equinoctial Regions Of America During The Years 1799-1804 - Volume 3 - By Alexander Von Humboldt And Aime Bonpland.
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Four Or Five Leagues
South Of The Northern Chain (That Of Mariara, La Silla And Cape
Codera) The Mountains Of
Guiripa, Ocumare and Panaquire form the
southern chain of the coast, which stretches in a parallel direction
from Guigue to
The mouth of the Rio Tuy, by the Guesta of Yusma and
the Guacimo. The latitudes of the Villa de Cura and San Juan, so
erroneously marked on our maps, enabled me to ascertain the mean
breadth of the whole Cordillera of Venezuela. Ten or twelve leagues
may be reckoned as the distance from the descent of the northern chain
which bounds the Caribbean Sea, to the descent of the southern chain
bounding the immense basin of the Llanos. This latter chain, which
also bears the name of the Inland Mountains, is much lower than the
northern chain; and I can hardly believe that the Sierra de Guayraima
attains the height of 1200 toises.
The two partial chains, that of the interior, and that which runs
along the coast, are linked by a ridge or knot of mountains known by
the names of Altos de las Cocuyzas (845 toises) and the Higuerote (835
toises between Los Teques and La Victoria) in longitude 69 degrees 30
minutes and 69 degrees 50 minutes. On the west of this ridge lies the
enclosed basin* of the lake of Valencia or the Valles de Aragua (*
This basin contains a small system of inland rivers which do not
communicate with the ocean. The southern chain of the litteral
Cordillera of Venezuela is so depressed on the south-west that the Rio
Pao is separated from the tributary streams of the lake of Tacarigua
or Valencia. Towards the east the Rio Tuy, which takes its rise on the
western declivity of the knot of mountains of Las Cocuyzas, appears at
first to empty itself into the valleys of Aragua; but hills of
calcareous tufa, forming a ridge between Consejo and Victoria, force
it to take its course south-east.); and on the east the basin of
Caracas and of the Rio Tuy. The bottom of the first-mentioned basins
is between 220 and 250 toises high; the bottom of the latter is 460
toises above the level of the Caribbean Sea. It follows from these
measures that the most western of the two longitudinal valleys
enclosed by the littoral Cordillera is the deepest; while in the
plains near the Apure and the Orinoco the declivity is from west to
east; but we must not forget that the peculiar disposition of the
bottom of the two basins, which are bounded by two parallel chains, is
a local phenomenon altogether separate from the causes on which the
general structure of the country depends. The eastern basin of the
Cordillera of Venezuela is not shut up like the basin of Valencia. It
is in the knot of the mountains of Las Cocuyzas, and of Higuerote,
that the Serrania de los Teques and Oripoto, stretching eastward, form
two valleys, those of the Rio Guayre and Rio Tuy; the former contains
the town of Caracas and both unite below the Caurimare. The Rio Tuy
runs through the rest of the basin, from west to east, as far as its
mouth which is situated on the north of the mountains of Panaquire.
Cape Codera seems to terminate the northern range of the littoral
mountains of Venezuela but this termination is only apparent. The
coast forms a vast nook, thirty-five sea leagues in length, at the
bottom of which is the mouth of the Rio Unare and the road of Nueva
Barcelona. Stretching first from west to east, in the parallel of 10
degrees 37 minutes, this coast recedes at the parallel 10 degrees 6
minutes, and resumes its original direction (10 degrees 37 minutes to
10 degrees 44 minutes) from the western extremity of the peninsula of
Araya to the eastern extremities of Montana de Paria and the island of
Trinidad. From this dissection of the coast it follows that the range
of mountains bordering the shore of the provinces of Caracas and
Barcelona, between the meridian 66 degrees 32 minutes and 68 degrees
29 minutes (which I saw on the south of the bay of Higuerote and on
the north of the Llanos of Pao and Cachipo), must be considered as the
continuation of the southern chain of Venezuela and as being linked on
the west with the Sierras de Panaquire and Ocumare. It may therefore
be said that between Cape Codera and Cariaco the inland chain itself
forms the coast. This range of very low mountains, often interrupted
from the mouth of the Rio Tuy to that of the Rio Neveri, rises
abruptly on the east of Nueva Barcelona, first in the rocky island of
Chimanas, and then in the Cerro del Bergantin, elevated probably more
than 800 toises, but of which the astronomical position and the
precise height are yet alike unknown. On the meridian of Cumana the
northern chain (that of Cape Codera and the Silla of Caracas) again
appears. The micaceous slate of the peninsula of Araya and Maniquarez
joins by the ridge or knot of mountains of Meapire the southern chain,
that of Panaquire the Bergantin, Turimiquiri, Caripe and Guacharo.
This ridge, not more than 200 toises of absolute height, has, in the
ancient revolutions of our planet, prevented the irruption of the
ocean, and the union of the gulfs of Paria and Cariaco. On the west of
Cape Codera the northern chain, composed of primitive granitic rocks,
presents the loftiest summits of the whole Cordillera of Venezuela;
but the culminant points east of that cape are composed in the
southern chain of secondary calcareous rocks. We have seen above that
the peak of Turimiquiri, at the back of the Cocollar, is 1050 toises,
while the bottoms of the high valleys of the convent of Caripe and of
Guardia de San Augustin are 412 and 533 toises of absolute height. On
the east of the ridge of Meapire the southern chain sinks abruptly
towards the Rio Arco and the Guarapiche; but, on quitting the main
land, we again see it rising on the southern coast of the island of
Trinidad which is but a detached portion of the continent, and of
which the northern side unquestionably presents the vestiges of the
northern chain of Venezuela, that is, of the Montana de Paria (the
Paradise of Christopher Columbus), the peninsula of Araya and the
Silla of Caracas.
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