Personal Narrative Of Travels To The Equinoctial Regions Of America During The Years 1799-1804 - Volume 3 - By Alexander Von Humboldt And Aime Bonpland.
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Their
Metallic Wealth Seems To Denote That They Are A Prolongation Of The
Eastern Cordillera Of Mexico.
The western branch or Cordillera
occupies a part of the province of Guadalajara and stretches by
Culiacan, Aripe and
The auriferous lands of the Pimeria Alta and La
Sonora, as far as the banks of the Rio Gila (latitude 33 to 34
degrees), one of the most ancient dwellings of the Aztek nations. We
shall soon see that this western chain appears to be linked by the
spurs that advance to the west, with the maritime Alps of California.
Finally, the central Cordillera of Anahuac, which is the most
elevated, runs first from south-east to north-west, by Zacatecas
towards Durango, and afterwards from south to north, by Chihuahua,
towards New Mexico. It takes successively the names of Sierra de Acha,
Sierra de Los Mimbres, Sierra Verde, and Sierra de las Grullas, and
about the 29 and 39 degrees of latitude, it is connected by spurs with
two lateral chains, those of the Texas and La Sonora, which renders
the separation of the chains more imperfect than the trifurcations of
the Andes in South America.
That part of the Cordilleras of Mexico which is richest in silver beds
and veins, is comprehended between the parallels of Oaxaca and
Cosiquiriachi (latitude 16 1/2 to 29 degrees); the alluvial soil that
contains disseminated gold extends some degrees still further
northwards. It is a very striking phenomenon that the gold-washing of
Cinaloa and Sonora, like that of Barbacoas and Choco on the south and
north of the isthmus of Panama, is uniformly situated on the west of
the central chain, on the descent opposite the Pacific. The traces of
a still-burning volcanic fire which was no longer seen, on a length of
200 leagues, from Pasto and Popayan to the gulf of Nicoya (latitude 1
1/4 to 9 1/2 degrees), become very frequent on the western coast of
Guatimala (latitude 9 1/2 to 16 degrees); these traces of fire again
cease in the gneiss-granite mountains of Oaxaca, and re-appear,
perhaps for the last time, towards the north, in the central
Cordillera of Anahuac, between latitude 18 1/4 and 19 1/2 degrees,
where the volcanoes of Taxtla, Orizaba, Popocatepetl, Toluca, Jorullo
and Colima appear to be situated in a crevice* extending from
east-south-east to west-north-west, from one ocean to the other. (* On
this zone of volcanoes is the parallel of the greatest heights of New
Spain. If the survey of Captain Basil Hall afford results alike
certain in latitude and in longitude, the volcano of Colima is north
of the parallel of Puerto de Navidad in latitude 19 degrees 36
minutes; and, like the volcano of Tuxtla, if not beyond the zone, at
least beyond the average parallel of the volcanic fire of Mexico,
which parallel seems to be between 18 degrees 59 minutes and 19
degrees 12 minutes.) This line of summits, several of which enter the
limit of perpetual snow, and which are the loftiest of the Cordilleras
from the peak of Tolima (latitude 40 degrees 46 minutes north), is
almost perpendicular to the great axis of the chain of Guatimala and
Anahuac, advancing to the 27th parallel, uniformly north 42 degrees
east. A characteristic feature of every knot, or widening of the
Cordilleras, is that the grouping of the summits is independent of the
general direction of the axis. The backs of the mountains in New Spain
form very elevated plains, along which carriages can roll for an
extent of 400 leagues, from the capital to Santa-Fe and Taos, near the
sources of Rio del Norte. This immense table-land, in 19 and 24 1/2
degrees, is constantly at the height of from 950 to 1200 toises, that
is, at the elevation of the passes of the Great Saint Bernard and the
Splugen. We find on the back of the Cordilleras of Anahuac, which
lower progressively from the city of Mexico towards Taos, a succession
of basins: they are separated by hills little striking to the eye of
the traveller because they rise only from 250 to 400 toises above the
surrounding plains. The basins are sometimes closed, like the valley
of Tenochtitlan, where lie the great Alpine lakes, and sometimes they
exhibit traces of ancient ejections, destitute of water.
Between latitude 33 and 38 degrees, the Rio del Norte forms, in its
upper course, a great longitudinal valley; and the central chain seems
here to be divided into several parallel ranges. This distribution
continues northward, in the Rocky Mountains,* where, between the
parallels of 37 and 41 degrees, several summits covered with eternal
snow (Spanish Peak, James Peak and Big Horn) are from 1600 to 1870
toises of absolute height. (* The Rocky Mountains have been at
different periods designated by the names of Chypewyan, Missouri,
Columbian, Caous, Stony, Shining and Sandy Mountains.) Towards
latitude 40 degrees south of the sources of the Paduca, a tributary of
the Rio de la Plata, a branch known by the name of the Black Hills,
detaches itself towards the north-east from the central chain. The
Rocky Mountains at first seem to lower considerably in 46 and 48
degrees; and then rise to 48 and 49 degrees, where their tops are from
1200 to 1300 toises, and their ridge near 950 toises. Between the
sources of the Missouri and the River Lewis, one of the tributaries of
the Oregon or Columbia, the Cordilleras form in widening, an elbow
resembling the knot of Cuzco. There, also, on the eastern declivity of
the Rocky Mountains, is the partition of water between the Caribbean
Sea and the Polar Sea. This point corresponds with those in the Andes
of South America, at the spur of Cochabamba, on the east, latitude 19
degrees 20 minutes south; and in the Alto de los Robles (latitude 2
degrees 20 minutes north), on the west. The ridge that separates the
Rocky Mountains extends from west to east, towards Lake Superior,
between the basins of the Missouri and those of Lake Winnipeg and the
Slave Lake.
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