Personal Narrative Of Travels To The Equinoctial Regions Of America During The Years 1799-1804 - Volume 3 - By Alexander Von Humboldt And Aime Bonpland.
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The Valley Of Patias, For Instance, Running
From North-East To South-West Is Only 350 Toises Of Absolute Height,
Even above the junction of the Rio Guachion with the Quilquasi,
according to the barometric measures of M. Caldas; and
Yet it is
surrounded by the highest summits, the Paramos de Puntaurcu and
Mamacondy. Going from the plains of Lombardy, and penetrating into the
Alps of the Tyrol, by a line perpendicular to the axis of the chain,
we advance more than 20 marine leagues towards the north, yet we find
the bottom of the valley of the Adige and of Eysack near Botzen, to be
only 182 toises of absolute height, an elevation which exceeds but 117
toises that of Milan. From Botzen however, to the ridge of Brenner
(culminant point 746 toises) is only 11 leagues. The Valais is a
longitudinal valley; and in a barometric measurement which I made very
recently from Paris to Naples and Berlin, I was surprised to find that
from Sion to Brigg, the bottom of the valley rises only to from 225 to
350 toises of absolute height; nearly the level of the plains of
Switzerland, which, between the Alps and the Jura, are only from 274
to 300 toises.) In this region, which has been carefully measured, the
different basins lower very sensibly from the equator northward. The
elevation of the bottom of enclosed basins merits great attention in
connection with the causes of the formation of the valleys. I do not
deny that the depressions in the plains may be sometimes the effect of
ancient pelagic currents, or slow erosions. I am inclined to believe
that the transversal valleys, resembling crevices, have been widened
by running waters; but these hypotheses of successive erosions cannot
well be applied to the completely enclosed basins of Titicaca and
Mexico. These basins, as well as those of Jauja, Cuenca and Almaguer,
which lose their waters only by a lateral and narrow issue, owe their
origin to a cause more instantaneous, more closely linked with the
upheaving of the whole chain. It may be said that the phenomenon of
the narrow declivities of the Sarenthal and of the valley of Eysack in
the Tyrol, is repeated at every step, and on a grander scale, in the
Cordilleras of equinoctial America. We seem to recognize in the
Cordilleras those longitudinal sinkings, those rocky vaults, which, to
use the expression of a great geologist,* "are broken when extended
over a great space, and leave deep and almost perpendicular rents." (*
Von Buch, Tableau du Tyrol meridional page 8 1823.)
If, to complete the sketch of the structure of the Andes from Tierra
del Fuego to the northern Polar Sea, we pass the boundaries of South
America, we find that the western Cordillera of New Grenada, after a
great depression between the mouth of the Atrato and the gulf of
Cupica, again rises in the isthmus of Panama to 80 or 100 toises high,
augmenting towards the west, in the Cordilleras of Veragua and
Salamanca,* and extending by Guatimala as far as the confines of
Mexico. (* If it be true, as some navigators affirm, that the
mountains at the north-western extremity of the republic of Columbia,
known by the names of Silla de Veragua, and Castillo del Choco, be
visible at 36 leagues distance, the elevation of their summits must be
nearly 1400 toises, little lower than the Silla of Caracas.) Within
this space it extends along the coast of the Pacific where, from the
gulf of Nicoya to Soconusco (latitude 9 1/2 to 16 degrees) is found a
long series of volcanoes,* most frequently insulated, and sometimes
linked to spurs or lateral branches. (* See the list of twenty-one
volcanoes of Guatimala, partly extinct and partly still burning, given
by Arago and myself, in the Annuaire du Bureau des Longitudes pour
1824 page 175. No mountain of Guatimala having been hitherto measured,
it is the more important to fix approximately the height of the Volcan
de Agua, or the Volcano of Pacaya, and the Volcan de Fuego, called
also Volcano of Guatimala. Mr. Juarros expressly says that this
volcano which, by torrents of water and stones, destroyed, on the 11th
September, 1541, the Ciudad Vieja, or Almolonga (the ancient capital
of the country, which must not be confounded with the ancient
Guatimala), is covered with snow, during several months of the year.
This phenomenon would seem to indicate a height of more than 1750
toises.) Passing the isthmus of Tehuantepecor Huasacualco, on the
Mexican territory, the Cordillera of central America extends on toward
the intendancia of Oaxaca, at an equal distance from the two oceans;
then from 18 1/2 to 21 degrees latitude, from Misteca to the mines of
Zimapan, it approximates to the eastern coast. Nearly in the parallel
of the city of Mexico, between Toluca, Xalapa and Cordoba, it attains
its maximum height; several colossal summits rising to 2400 and 2770
toises. Farther north the chain called Sierra Madre runs north 40
degrees west towards San Miguel el Grande and Guanaxuato. Near the
latter town (latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds) where the
richest silver mines of the known world are situated, it widens in an
extraordinary degree and separates into three branches. The most
eastern branch advances towards Charcas and the Real de Catorce, and
lowers progressively (turning to north-east) in the ancient kingdom of
Leon, in the province of Cohahuila and Texas. That branch is prolonged
from the Rio Colorado de Texas, crossing the Arkansas near the
confluence of the Mississippi and the Missouri (latitude 38 degrees 51
minutes). In those countries it bears the name of the Mountains of
Ozark,* and attains 300 toises of height. (* Ozark is at once the
ancient name of Arkansas and of the tribe of Quawpaw Indians who
inhabit the banks of that great river. The culminant point of the
Mountains of Ozark is in latitude 37 1/2 degrees, between the sources
of the White and Osage rivers.) It has been supposed that on the east
of the Mississippi (latitude 44 to 46 degrees) the Wisconsin Hills,
which stretch out to north-north-east in the direction of Lake
Superior, may be a continuation of the mountains of Ozark.
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