Personal Narrative Of Travels To The Equinoctial Regions Of America During The Years 1799-1804 - Volume 2 - By Alexander Von Humboldt And Aime Bonpland.
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One
Arm Of The Orinoco, (The Cassiquiare,) Running From North To South,
Falls Into The Guainia, Or Rio Negro, Which, In Its Turn, Joins The
Maranon, Or River Amazon.
The most natural way, therefore, to go from
Angostura to Grand Para, would be to ascend the Orinoco as
Far as
Esmeralda, and then to go down the Cassiquiare, the Rio Negro, and the
Amazon; but, as the Rio Negro in the upper part of its course
approaches very near the sources of some rivers that fall into the
Orinoco near San Fernando de Atabapo (where the Orinoco abruptly
changes its direction from east to west to take that from south to
north), the passage up that part of the river between San Fernando and
Esmeralda, in order to reach the Rio Negro, may be avoided. Leaving
the Orinoco near the mission of San Fernando, the traveller proceeds
up the little black rivers (the Atabapo, the Temi, and the Tuamini),
and the boats are carried across an isthmus six thousand toises broad,
to the banks of a stream (the Cano Pimichin) which flows into the Rio
Negro. This was the course which we took.
The road from San Carlos to San Fernando de Atabapo is far more
disagreeable, and is half as long again by the Cassiquiare as by
Javita and the Cano Pimichin. In this region I determined, by means of
a chronometer by Berthoud, and by the meridional heights of stars, the
situation of San Balthasar de Atabapo, Javita, San Carlos del Rio
Negro, the rock Culimacavi, and Esmeralda. When no roads exist save
tortuous and intertwining rivers, when little villages are hidden amid
thick forests, and when, in a country entirely flat, no mountain, no
elevated object is visible from two points at once, it is only in the
sky that we can read where we are upon the earth.
San Fernando de Atabapo stands near the confluence of three great
rivers; the Orinoco, the Guaviare, and the Atabapo. Its situation is
similar to that of Saint Louis or of New Madrid, at the junction of
the Mississippi with the Missouri and the Ohio. In proportion as the
activity of commerce increases in these countries traversed by immense
rivers, the towns situated at their confluence will necessarily become
bustling ports, depots of merchandise, and centre points of
civilization. Father Gumilla confesses, that in his time no person had
any knowledge of the course of the Orinoco above the mouth of the
Guaviare.
D'Anville, in the first edition of his great map of South America,
laid down the Rio Negro as an arm of the Orinoco, that branched off
from the principal body of the river between the mouths of the Meta
and the Vichada, near the cataract of Atures. That great geographer
was entirely ignorant of the existence of the Cassiquiare and the
Atabapo; and he makes the Orinoco or Rio Paragua, the Japura, and the
Putumayo, take their rise from three branchings of the Caqueta. The
expedition of the boundaries, commanded by Iturriaga and Solano,
corrected these errors.
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