Personal Narrative Of Travels To The Equinoctial Regions Of America During The Years 1799-1804 - Volume 1 - By Alexander Von Humboldt And Aime Bonpland.
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(* The Mean Heat
Of The Summers Of Scotland In The Environs Of Edinburgh, (Latitude
56 Degrees), Is Found Again On The Table-Lands Of New Grenada, So
Rich In Wheat, At 1400 Toises Of Elevation, And At 4 Degrees North
Latitude.
On the other hand, we find the mean temperature of the
valleys of Aragua, latitude 10 degrees 13 minutes,
And of all the
plains which are not very elevated in the torrid zone, in the
summer temperature of Naples and Sicily, latitude 39 to 40 degrees.
These figures indicate the situation of the isotheric lines (lines
of the same summer heat), and not that of the isothermal lines
(those of equal annual temperature). Considering the quantity of
heat received on the same spot of the globe during a whole year,
the mean temperatures of the valleys of Aragua, and the table-lands
of New Grenada, at 300 and 1400 toises of elevation, correspond to
the mean temperatures of the coasts at 23 and 45 degrees of
latitude.)
The fine harvests of Egypt and of Algiers, as well as those of the
valleys of Aragua and the interior of the island of Cuba,
sufficiently prove that the augmentation of heat is not prejudicial
to the harvest of wheat and other alimentary grain, unless it be
attended with an excess of drought or moisture. To this
circumstance no doubt we must attribute the apparent anomalies
sometimes observed within the tropics, in the lower limit of corn.
We are astonished to see, eastward of the Havannah, in the famous
district of Quatro Villas, that this limit descends almost to the
level of the ocean; whilst west of the Havannah, on the slope of
the mountains of Mexico and Xalapa, at six hundred and
seventy-seven toises of height, the luxuriance of vegetation is
such, that wheat does not form ears. At the beginning of the
Spanish conquest, the corn of Europe was cultivated with success in
several regions now supposed to be too hot, or too damp, for this
branch of agriculture. The Spaniards on their first removal to
America were little accustomed to live on maize. They still adhered
to their European habits. They did not calculate whether corn would
be less profitable than coffee or cotton. They tried seeds of every
kind, making experiments the more boldly because their reasonings
were less founded on false theories. The province of Carthagena,
crossed by the chain of the mountains Maria and Guamoco, produced
wheat till the sixteenth century. In the province of Caracas, this
culture is of very ancient date in the mountainous lands of Tocuyo,
Quibor, and Barquisimeto, which connect the littoral chain with the
Sierra Nevada of Merida. Wheat is still successfully cultivated
there, and the environs of the town of Tocuyo alone export annually
more than eight thousand quintals of excellent flour. But, though
the province of Caracas, in its vast extent, includes several spots
very favourable to the cultivation of European corn, I believe that
in general this branch of agriculture will never acquire any great
importance there. The most temperate valleys are not sufficiently
wide; they are not real table-lands; and their mean elevation above
the level of the sea is not so considerable but that the
inhabitants cannot fail to perceive that it is more their interest
to establish plantations of coffee, than to cultivate corn. Flour
now comes to Caracas either from Spain or from the United States.
The village of Turmero is four leagues distant from San Mateo. The
road leads through plantations of sugar, indigo, cotton, and
coffee. The regularity observable in the construction of the
villages, reminded us that they all owe their origin to monks and
missions. The streets are straight and parallel, crossing each
other at right angles; and the church is invariably erected in the
great square, situated in the centre of the village. The church of
Turmero is a fine edifice, but overloaded with architectural
ornaments. Since the missionaries have been replaced by vicars, the
whites have mingled their habitations with those of the Indians.
The latter are gradually disappearing as a separate race; that is
to say, they are represented in the general statement of the
population by the Mestizoes and the Zamboes, whose numbers daily
increase. I still found, however, four thousand tributary Indians
in the valleys of Aragua. Those of Turmero and Guacara are the most
numerous. They are of small stature, but less squat than the
Chaymas; their eyes denote more vivacity and intelligence, owing
less perhaps to a diversity in the race, than to a superior state
of civilization. They work like freemen by the day. Though active
and laborious during the short time they allot to labour, yet what
they earn in two months is spent in one week, in the purchase of
strong liquors at the small inns, of which unhappily the numbers
daily increase.
We saw at Turmero the remains of the assembled militia of the
country, and their appearance alone sufficiently indicated that
these valleys had enjoyed for ages undisturbed peace. The
capitan-general, in order to give a new impulse to the military
service, had ordered a grand review; and the battalion of Turmero,
in a mock fight, had fired on that of La Victoria. Our host, a
lieutenant of the militia, was never weary of describing to us the
danger of these manoeuvres, which seemed more burlesque than
imposing. With what rapidity do nations, apparently the most
pacific, acquire military habits! Twelve years afterwards, those
valleys of Aragua, those peaceful plains of La Victoria and
Turmero, the defile of Cabrera, and the fertile banks of the lake
of Valencia, became the scenes of obstinate and sanguinary
conflicts between the natives and the troops of the mother-country.
South of Turmero, a mass of limestone mountains advances into the
plain, separating two fine sugar-plantations, Guayavita and Paja.
The latter belongs to the family of Count Tovar, who have property
in every part of the province. Near Guayavita, brown iron-ore has
been discovered.
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