Personal Narrative Of Travels To The Equinoctial Regions Of America During The Years 1799-1804 - Volume 1 - By Alexander Von Humboldt And Aime Bonpland.
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The Gneiss, The Constituent
Parts Of Which Are In A State Of Considerable Disintegration,
Contains Large Crystals Of Feldspar; And, Though It Forms The Body
Of The Vein In The Mica-Slate, It Is Itself Traversed By Threads Of
Quartz Two Inches Thick, And Of Very Recent Formation.
The aspect
of this phenomenon is very curious:
It appears as if cannon-balls
were embedded in a wall of rock. I also thought I recognized in
these same regions, in the Montana de Avila, and at Cabo Blanco,
east of La Guayra, a granular diabasis, mixed with a small quantity
of quartz and pyrites, and destitute of garnets, not in veins, but
in subordinate strata in the mica-slate. This position is
unquestionably to be found in Europe in primitive mountains; but in
general the granular diabasis is more frequently connected with the
system of transition rocks, especially with a schist
(ubergangs-thonschiefer) abounding in beds of Lydian stone strongly
carburetted, of schistose jasper,* (Kieselschiefer.) ampelites,*
(Alaunschiefer.) and black limestone.
Near Antimano all the orchards were full of peach-trees loaded with
blossom. This village, the Valle, and the banks of the Macarao,
furnish great abundance of peaches, quinces, and other European
fruits for the market of Caracas. Between Antimano and Ajuntas we
crossed the Rio Guayra seventeen times. The road is very fatiguing;
yet, instead of making a new one, it would perhaps be better to
change the bed of the river, which loses a great quantity of water
by the combined effects of filtration and evaporation. Each
sinuosity forms a marsh more or less extensive. This loss of water
is to be regretted in a province, nearly all the cultivated
portions of which are extremely dry. The rains are much less
frequent and less violent in this place than in the interior of New
Andalusia, at Cumanacoa, and on the banks of the Guarapiche. Many
of the mountains of Caracas enter the region of the clouds; but the
strata of primitive rocks dip at an angle of 70 or 80 degrees, and
generally to northwest, so that the waters are either lost in the
interior of the earth, or gush out in copious springs not southward
but northward of the mountains of the coast of Niguatar, Avila, and
Mariara. The rising of the gneiss and mica-slate strata to the
south appears to me to explain in a considerable degree the extreme
humidity of the coast. In the interior of the province we meet with
portions of land, two or three leagues square, in which there are
no springs; consequently sugar-cane, indigo, and coffee, grow only
in places where running waters can be made to supply artificial
irrigation during very dry weather. The early colonists imprudently
destroyed the forests. Evaporation is enormous on a stony soil
surrounded with rocks, which radiate heat on every side. The
mountains of the coast, like a wall, extending east and west from
Cape Codera toward Point Tucacas, prevent the humid air of the
shore (that is to say, those inferior strata of the atmosphere
resting immediately on the sea, and dissolving the largest
proportion of water) from penetrating to the islands. There are few
openings, few ravines, which, like those of Catia or of Tipe, lead
from the coast to the high longitudinal valleys, and there is no
bed of a great river, no gulf allowing the sea to flow inland,
spreading moisture by abundant evaporation. In the eighth and tenth
degrees of latitude, in regions where the clouds do not, as it
were, skim the surface of the soil, many trees are stripped of
their leaves in the months of January and February; not by the
sinking of the temperature as in Europe, but because the air at
this period, the most distant from the rainy season, nearly attains
its maximum of dryness. Only those plants which have very tough and
glossy leaves resist this absence of humidity. Beneath the fine sky
of the tropics the traveller is struck with the almost hibernal
aspect of the country; but the freshest verdure again appears when
he reaches the banks of the Orinoco, where another climate
prevails; and the great forests preserve by their shade a certain
quantity of moisture in the soil, by sheltering it from the
devouring heat of the sun.
Beyond the small village of Antimano the valley becomes much
narrower. The river is bordered with Lata, a fine gramineous plant
with distich leaves, which sometimes reaches the height of thirty
feet.* (* G. saccharoides.) Every hut is surrounded with enormous
trees of persea,* (* Laurus persea (alligator pear).) at the foot
of which the aristolochiae, paullinia, and other creepers vegetate.
The neighbouring mountains, covered with forests, seem to spread
humidity over the western extremity of the valley of Caracas. We
passed the night before our arrival at Las Ajuntas at a sugar-cane
plantation. A square house (the hacienda or farm of Don Fernando
Key-Munoz) contained nearly eighty negroes; they were lying on
skins of oxen spread upon the ground. In each apartment of the
house were four slaves: it looked like a barrack. A dozen fires
were burning in the farm-yard, where people were employed in
dressing food, and the noisy mirth of the blacks almost prevented
us from sleeping. The clouds hindered me from observing the stars;
the moon appeared only at intervals. The aspect of the landscape
was dull and uniform, and all the surrounding hills were covered
with aloes. Workmen were employed at a small canal, intended for
conveying the waters of the Rio San Pedro to the farm, at a height
of more than seventy feet. According to a barometric calculation,
the site of the hacienda is only fifty toises above the bed of the
Rio Guayra at La Noria, near Caracas.
The soil of these countries is found to be but little favourable to
the cultivation of the coffee-tree, which in general is less
productive in the valley of Caracas than was imagined when the
first plantations were made near Chacao.
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