Personal Narrative Of Travels To The Equinoctial Regions Of America During The Years 1799-1804 - Volume 1 - By Alexander Von Humboldt And Aime Bonpland.
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Their
Barrenness, However, Is Not Owing To Their Height:
The limit of
trees in this region is four hundred toises higher; since, judging
according to the analogy of other mountains, this limit would be
found here only at a height of eighteen hundred toises.
The absence
of large trees on the two rocky summits of the Silla may be
attributed to the aridity of the soil, the violence of the winds
blowing from the sea, and the conflagrations so frequent in all the
mountains of the equinoctial region.
To reach the eastern peak, which is the highest, it is necessary to
approach as near as possible the great precipice which descends
towards Caravalleda and the coast. The gneiss as far as this spot
preserves its lamellar texture and its primitive direction; but
where we climbed the summit of the Silla, we found it had passed
into granite. Its texture becomes granular; the mica, less
frequent, is more unequally spread through the rock. Instead of
garnets we met with a few solitary crystals of hornblende. It is,
however, not a syenite, but rather a granite of new formation. We
were three quarters of an hour in reaching the summit of the
pyramid. This part of the way is not dangerous, provided the
traveller carefully examines the stability of each fragment of rock
on which he places his foot. The granite superposed on the gneiss
does not present a regular separation into beds: it is divided by
clefts, which often cross one another at right angles. Prismatic
blocks, one foot wide and twelve long, stand out from the ground
obliquely, and appear on the edges of the precipice like enormous
beams suspended over the abyss.
Having arrived at the summit, we enjoyed, for a few minutes only,
the serenity of the sky. The eye ranged over a vast extent of
country: looking down to the north was the sea, and to the south,
the fertile valley of Caracas. The barometer was at 20 inches 7.6
lines; the thermometer at 13.7 degrees. We were at thirteen hundred
and fifty toises of elevation. We gazed on an extent of sea, the
radius of which was thirty-six leagues. Persons who are affected by
looking downward from a considerable height should remain at the
centre of the small flat which crowns the eastern summit of the
Silla. The mountain is not very remarkable for height: it is nearly
eighty toises lower than the Canigou; but it is distinguished among
all the mountains I have visited by an enormous precipice on the
side next the sea. The coast forms only a narrow border; and
looking from the summit of the pyramid on the houses of
Caravalleda, this wall of rocks seems, by an optical illusion, to
be nearly perpendicular. The real slope of the declivity appeared
to me, according to an exact calculation, 53 degrees 28 minutes.*
(* Observations of the latitude give for the horizontal distance
between the foot of the mountain near Caravalleda, and the vertical
line passing through its summit, scarcely 1000 toises.) The mean
slope of the peak of Teneriffe is scarcely 12 degrees 30 minutes. A
precipice of six or seven thousand feet, like that of the Silla of
Caracas, is a phenomenon far more rare than is generally believed
by those who cross mountains without measuring their height, their
bulk, and their slope. Since the experiments on the fall of bodies,
and on their deviation to the south-east, have been resumed in
several parts of Europe, a rock of two hundred and fifty toises of
perpendicular elevation has been in vain sought for among all the
Alps of Switzerland. The declivity of Mont Blanc towards the Allee
Blanche does not even reach an angle of 45 degrees; though in the
greater number of geological works, Mont Blanc is described as
perpendicular on the south side.
At the Silla of Caracas, the enormous northern cliff is partly
covered with vegetation, notwithstanding the extreme steepness of
its slope. Tufts of befaria and andromedas appear as if suspended
from the rock. The little valley which separates the domes towards
the south, stretches in the direction of the sea. Alpine plants
fill this hollow; and, not confined to the ridge of the mountain,
they follow the sinuosities of the ravine. It would seem as if
torrents were concealed under that fresh foliage; and the
disposition of the plants, the grouping of so many inanimate
objects, give the landscape all the charm of motion and of life.
Seven months had now elapsed since we had been on the summit of the
peak of Teneriffe, whence we surveyed a space of the globe equal to
a fourth part of France. The apparent horizon of the sea is there
six leagues farther distant than at the top of the Silla, and yet
we saw that horizon, at least for some time, very distinctly. It
was strongly marked, and not confounded with the adjacent strata of
air. At the Silla, which is five hundred and fifty toises lower
than the peak of Teneriffe, the horizon, though nearer, continued
invisible towards the north and north-north-east. Following with
the eye the surface of the sea, which was smooth as glass, we were
struck with the progressive diminution of the reflected light.
Where the visual ray touched the last limit of that surface, the
water was lost among the superposed strata of air. This appearance
has something in it very extraordinary. We expect to see the
horizon level with the eye; but, instead of distinguishing at this
height a marked limit between the two elements, the more distant
strata of water seem to be transformed into vapour, and mingled
with the aerial ocean. I observed the same appearance, not in one
spot of the horizon alone, but on an extent of more than a hundred
and sixty degrees, along the Pacific, when I found myself for the
first time on the pointed rock that commands the crater of
Pichincha; a volcano, the elevation of which exceeds that of Mont
Blanc.* (* See Views of Nature, Bohn's edition, page 358.) The
visibility of a very distant horizon depends, when there is no
mirage, upon two distinct things:
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