The Temperature Was
Charming, Although In The Distance We Could See The Snow-Capped
Mountains.
We run through the antelope valley, gather some juniper
plant, see a skunk, see natural oil wells at Saugus,
Pass the head of
the Santa Clara Valley, see the San Fernando mountains, go through the
greatest tunnel in America - the San Fernando tunnel, 6,967 feet long,
go by Burbank, where there is a land boom, and arrive at Los Angeles,
where during the two hours of waiting I have a look at the town and a
pleasant chat with Mr. White Mortimer, the British Consul, whom I called
upon. The next day (December 18th) we were on the desert of Arizona,
where we saw Indian camps at places which were somewhat oases as to
plant life. Speaking generally, nothing grows on a great part of this
desert but cactus, of which I am told there are some 200 varieties, from
the dwarf kind to trees 40 feet high. This plant has a strange if not a
weird appearance. Here and there, like solitary sentinels, stands out a
tall cactus, with perhaps two or three heads or branches, growing
perpendicularly with itself. The mountains on either side look as if
they had their origin in volcanic eruptions.
Some parts of the desert are covered with a dwarf kind of evergreen
shrub. We see large numbers of prairie dogs, which are of a size between
a rat and a rabbit; they live in holes like rabbits. There are also
gophers, skunks, prairie rats, rattlesnakes, and hawks, which feed on
snakes and rats. We pass tribes of Yuma Indians, Aztec Indians and Gila
(pronounced Heela) Indians. On reaching a part where is some grass we
see some cattle, which are straying on the line; the engine whistle
shrieks, the cattle run, and some coyote wolves are startled from their
lairs and run, too; large numbers are here, and the preceding night
their yells aroused some passengers from sleep. As we proceed, quail are
seen, and wild cats something like a lynx. Arriving at Tucson
(pronounced Tewsohn), I enquired for a gentleman to whom I had an
introduction, but learned that he was up at his gold mine. This Tucson
is an ancient city, having been founded by the Jesuits in 1560 A.D. It
does a large business in exporting gold dust, wool, and hides. I expect
that these mountains of Arizona contain much value in minerals. The
Indians in this part of the country are the Apaches, and were described
to me as the most treacherous of all the American Indians, that they are
cowardly and will never fight in the open. A gentleman who entered the
train at Tucson gave me many instances of this. In the evening we saw
"cow-boys" round their fire camping out in the open, and also a camp of
freighters resting on their journey across the desert. The next morning
early (December 19th) we arrived at El Paso, a most interesting Mexican
town situate on the borders of Old Mexico, New Mexico and Texas, where I
bought the skin of a Mexican tiger, and other things.
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