As We Drew Near The Islands Off Santa Barbara, It
Died Away A Little But We Came-To At Our Old Anchoring-Ground In
Less Than Thirty Hours From The Time Of Leaving Monterey.
Here everything was pretty much as we left it - the large bay without
a vessel in it; the surf
Roaring and rolling in upon the beach;
the white mission; the dark town and the high, treeless mountains.
Here, too, we had our south-easter tacks aboard again, - slip-ropes,
buoy-ropes, sails furled with reefs in them, and rope-yarns for gaskets.
We lay here about a fortnight, employed in landing goods and taking
off hides, occasionally, when the surf was not high; but there did
not appear to be one-half the business doing here that there was
in Monterey. In fact, so far as we were concerned, the town might
almost as well have been in the middle of the Cordilleras. We lay
at a distance of three miles from the beach, and the town was nearly
a mile farther; so that we saw little or nothing of it. Occasionally
we landed a few goods, which were taken away by Indians in large,
clumsy ox-carts, with the yoke on the ox's neck instead of under it,
and with small solid wheels. A few hides were brought down, which we
carried off in the California style. This we had now got pretty well
accustomed to; and hardened to also; for it does require a little
hardening even to the toughest.
The hides are always brought down dry, or they would not be received.
When they are taken from the animal, they have holes cut in the ends,
and are staked out, and thus dried in the sun without shrinking.
They are then doubled once, lengthwise, with the hair side usually in,
and sent down, upon mules or in carts, and piled above highwater mark;
and then we rake them upon our heads, one at a time, or two, if they
are small, and wade out with them and throw them into the boat,
which as there are no wharves, we are usually kept anchored by a
small kedge, or keelek, just outside of the surf. We all provided
ourselves with thick Scotch caps, which would be soft to the head,
and at the same time protect it; for we soon found that however it
might look or feel at first the "head-work" was the only system for
California. For besides that the seas, breaking high, often obliged
us to carry the hides so, in order to keep them dry, we found that,
as they were very large and heavy, and nearly as stiff as boards,
it was the only way that we could carry them with any convenience
to ourselves. Some of the crew tried other expedients, saying that
they looked too much like West India negroes; but they all came to
it at last. The great art is in getting them on the head. We had
to take them from the ground, and as they were often very heavy,
and as wide as the arms could stretch and easily taken by the wind,
we used to have some trouble with them. I have often been laughed
at myself, and joined in laughing at others, pitching themselves
down in the sand, trying to swing a large hide upon their heads,
or nearly blown over with one in a little gust of wind. The captain
made it harder for us, by telling us that it was "California fashion"
to carry two on the head at a time; and as he insisted upon it,
and we did not wish to be outdone by other vessels, we carried two
for the first few months; but after falling in with a few other
"hide-droghers," and finding that they carried only one at a time we
"knocked off" the extra one, and thus made our duty somewhat easier.
After we had got our heads used to the weight, and had learned the
true California style of tossing a hide, we could carry off two or
three hundred in a short time, without much trouble; but it was
always wet work, and, if the beach was stony, bad for our feet;
for we, of course, always went barefooted on this duty, as no shoes
could stand such constant wetting with salt water. Then, too, we
had a long pull of three miles, with a loaded boat, which often
took a couple of hours.
We had now got well settled down into our harbor duties, which,
as they are a good deal different from those at sea, it may be
well enough to describe. In the first place, all hands are called
at daylight, or rather - especially if the days are short - before
daylight, as soon as the first grey of the morning. The cook makes
his fire in the galley; the steward goes about his work in the cabin;
and the crew rig the head pump, and wash down the decks. The chief
mate is always on deck, but takes no active part, all the duty coming
upon the second mate, who has to roll up his trowsers and paddle about
decks barefooted, like the rest of the crew. The washing, swabbing,
squilgeeing, etc., lasts, or is made to last, until eight o'clock,
when breakfast is ordered, fore and aft. After breakfast, for which
half an hour is allowed, the boats are lowered down, and made fast
astern, or out to the swinging booms, by ges-warps, and the crew
are turned-to upon their day's work. This is various, and its
character depends upon circumstances. There is always more or
less of boating, in small boats; and if heavy goods are to be
taken ashore, or hides are brought down to the beach for us,
then all hands are sent ashore with an officer in the long boat.
Then there is always a good deal to be done in the hold:
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