I Was In A
Dream Of San Diego, San Pedro - With Its Hills So Steep For Taking
Up Goods, And Its Stones So Hard To Our Bare Feet - And The Cliffs
Of San Juan!
All this, too, is no more!
The entire hide-business
is of the past, and to the present inhabitants of California a dim
tradition. The gold discoveries drew off all men from the gathering
or cure of hides, the inflowing population made an end of the
great droves of cattle; and now not a vessel pursues the - I was
about to say dear - the dreary once hated business of gathering
hides upon the coast, and the beach of San Diego is abandoned and
its hide-houses have disappeared. Meeting a respectable-looking
citizen on the wharf, I inquired of him how the hide-trade was
carried on. "O," said he, "there is very little of it, and that
is all here. The few that are brought in are placed under
sheds in winter, or left out on the wharf in summer, and are
loaded from the wharves into the vessels alongside. They form
parts of cargoes of other materials." I really felt too much,
at the instant, to express to him the cause of my interest in
the subject, and only added, "Then the old business of trading
up and down the coast and curing hides for cargoes is all over?"
"O yes, sir," said he, "those old times of the Pilgrim and Alert
and California, that we read about, are gone by."
Saturday, August 20th. The steamer Senator makes regular trips up
and down the coast, between San Francisco and San Diego, calling
at intermediate ports. This is my opportunity to revisit the
old scenes. She sails to-day, and I am off, steaming among the
great clippers anchored in the harbor, and gliding rapidly round
the point, past Alcatraz Island, the light-house, and through the
fortified Golden Gate, and bending to the southward, - all done in
two or three hours, which, in the Alert, under canvas, with head
tides, variable winds, and sweeping currents to deal with, took us
full two days.
Among the passengers I noticed an elderly gentleman, thin, with
sandy hair and face that seemed familiar. He took off his glove
and showed one shrivelled hand. It must be he! I went to him
and said, "Captain Wilson, I believe." Yes, that was his name.
"I knew you, sir, when you commanded the Ayacucho on this coast,
in old hide-droghing times, in 1835-6." He was quickened by this,
and at once inquiries were made on each side, and we were in full talk
about the Pilgrim and Alert, Ayacucho and Loriotte, the California
and Lagoda. I found he had been very much flattered by the praise
I had bestowed in my book on his seamanship, especially in bringing
the Pilgrim to her berth in San Diego harbor, after she had drifted
successively into the Lagoda and Loriotte, and was coming into him.
I had made a pet of his brig, the Ayacucho, which pleased him almost
as much as my remembrance of his bride and their wedding, which I
saw at Santa Barbara in 1836.
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