We Spent The Day
On Board In The Usual Avocations; But As This Was The First Time We
Had Been
Without the captain, we felt a little more freedom, and looked
about us to see what sort of a country
We had got into, and were to
spend a year or two of our lives in.
In the first place, it was a beautiful day, and so warm that we had
on straw hats, duck trowsers, and all the summer gear; and as this
was mid-winter, it spoke well for the climate; and we afterwards
found that the thermometer never fell to the freezing-point throughout
the winter, and that there was very little difference between the
seasons, except that during a long period of rainy and south-easterly
weather, thick clothes were not uncomfortable.
The large bay lay about us, nearly smooth, as there was hardly a
breath of wind stirring, though the boat's crew who went ashore told
us that the long ground swell broke into a heavy surf upon the beach.
There was only one vessel in the port - a long, sharp brig of about
300 tons, with raking masts and very square yards, and English colors
at her peak. We afterwards learned that she was built at Guayaquil,
and named the Ayacucho, after the place where the battle was fought
that gave Peru her independence, and was now owned by a Scotchman
named Wilson, who commanded her, and was engaged in the trade between
Callao, the Sandwich Islands, and California. She was a fast sailer,
as we frequently afterwards perceived, and had a crew of Sandwich
Islanders on board. Beside this vessel there was no object to break
the surface of the bay. Two points ran out as the horns of the crescent,
one of which - the one to the westward - was low and sandy, and is that
to which vessels are obliged to give a wide berth when running out
for a south-easter; the other is high, bold, and well wooded, and,
we were told, has a mission upon it, called St. Buenaventura, from which
the point is named. In the middle of this crescent, directly opposite
the anchoring ground, lie the mission and town of Santa Barbara, on a
low, flat plain, but little above the level of the sea, covered with
grass, though entirely without trees, and surrounded on three sides
by an amphitheatre of mountains, which slant off to the distance of
fifteen or twenty miles. The mission stands a little back of the town,
and is a large building, or rather a collection of buildings, in the
centre of which is a high tower, with a belfry of five bells; and the
whole, being plastered, makes quite a show at a distance, and is the
mark by which vessels come to anchor. The town lies a little nearer
to the beach - about half a mile from it - and is composed of one-story
houses built of brown clay - some of them plastered - with red tiles on
the roofs. I should judge that there were about an hundred of them;
and in the midst of them stands the Presidio, or fort, built of the
same materials, and apparently but little stronger. The town is
certainly finely situated, with a bay in front, and an amphitheatre
of hills behind. The only thing which diminishes its beauty is,
that the hills have no large trees upon them, they having been all
burnt by a great fire which swept them off about a dozen years before,
and they had not yet grown up again. The fire was described to me by
an inhabitant, as having been a very terrible and magnificent sight.
The air of the whole valley was so heated that the people were obliged
to leave the town and take up their quarters for several days upon the beach.
Just before sun-down the mate ordered a boat's crew ashore, and I
went as one of the number. We passed under the stern of the English
brig, and had a long pull ashore. I shall never forget the impression
which our first landing on the beach of California made upon me.
The sun had just gone down; it was getting dusky; the damp night wind
was beginning to blow, and the heavy swell of the Pacific was setting in,
and breaking in loud and high "combers" upon the beach. We lay on our
oars in the swell, just outside of the surf, waiting for a good chance
to run in, when a boat, which had put off from the Ayacucho just after
us, came alongside of us, with a crew of dusky Sandwich Islanders,
talking and halooing in their outlandish tongue. They knew that we
were novices in this kind of boating, and waited to see us go in.
The second mate, however, who steered our boat, determined to have
the advantage of their experience, and would not go in first.
Finding, at length, how matters stood, they gave a shout, and taking
advantage of a great comber which came swelling in, rearing its head,
and lifting up the stern of our boat nearly perpendicular, and again
dropping it in the trough, they gave three or four long and strong pulls,
and went in on top of the great wave, throwing their oars overboard,
and as far from the boat as they could throw them, and jumping out the
instant that the boat touched the beach, and then seizing hold of her
and running her up high and dry upon the sand. We saw, at once,
how it was to be done, and also the necessity of keeping the boat
"stern on" to the sea; for the instant the sea should strike upon
her broad-side or quarter, she would be driven up broad-side-on,
and capsized. We pulled strongly in, and as soon as we felt that
the sea had got hold of us and was carrying us in with the speed
of a race-horse, we threw the oars as far from the boat as we could,
and took hold of the gunwale, ready to spring out and seize her when
she struck, the officer using his utmost strength to keep her stern on.
We were shot up upon the beach like an arrow from a bow, and seizing
the boat, ran her up high and dry, and soon picked up our oars,
and stood by her, ready for the captain to come down.
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