He Had
Seen Him Sit For Hours Together, Talking To This Bottle, Which He Stood
Up Before Him On The Table.
The same man cut his throat in his berth,
and everybody said he was possessed.
He had heard of ships, too, beating up the gulf of Finland against
a head wind, and having a ship heave in sight astern, overhaul and
pass them, with as fair a wind as could blow, and all studding-sails
out, and find she was from Finland.
"Oh ho!" said he; "I've seen too much of them men to want to see 'em
'board a ship. If they can't have their own way, they'll play the
d - -l with you."
As I still doubted, he said he would leave it to John, who was the
oldest seaman aboard, and would know, if anybody did. John, to be
sure, was the oldest, and at the same time the most ignorant, man
in the ship; but I consented to have him called. The cook stated
the matter to him, and John, as I anticipated, sided with the cook,
and said that he himself had been in a ship where they had a head
wind for a fortnight, and the captain found out at last that one
of the men, whom he had had some hard words with a short time before,
was a Fin, and immediately told him if he didn't stop the head wind
he would shut him down in the fore peak, and would not give him
anything to eat. The Fin held out for a day and a half, when he
could not stand it any longer, and did something or other which
brought the wind round again, and they let him up.
"There," said the cook, "what do you think o' dat?"
I told him I had no doubt it was true, and that it would have been
odd if the wind had not changed in fifteen days, Fin or no Fin.
"Oh," says he, "go 'way! You think, 'cause you been to college,
you know better than anybody. You know better than them as 'as
seen it with their own eyes. You wait till you've been to sea as
long as I have, and you'll know."
CHAPTER VII
JUAN FERNANDEZ - THE PACIFIC
We continued sailing along with a fair wind and fine weather until
Tuesday, Nov. 25th, when at daylight we saw the island of
Juan Fernandez, directly ahead, rising like a deep blue cloud out
of the sea. We were then probably nearly seventy miles from it;
and so high and so blue did it appear, that I mistook it for a cloud,
resting over the island, and looked for the island under it, until it
gradually turned to a deader and greener color, and I could mark the
inequalities upon its surface. At length we could distinguish trees
and rocks; and by the afternoon, this beautiful island lay fairly
before us, and we directed our course to the only harbor. Arriving at
the entrance soon after sun-down, we found a Chilian man-of-war brig,
the only vessel, coming out. She hailed us, and an officer on board,
whom we supposed to be an American, advised us to run in before night,
and said that they were bound to Valparaiso. We ran immediately for
the anchorage, but, owing to the winds which drew about the mountains
and came to us in flaws from every point of the compass, we did not
come to an anchor until nearly midnight. We had a boat ahead all the
time that we were working in, and those aboard were continually bracing
the yards about for every puff that struck us, until about 12 o'clock,
when we came-to in 40 fathoms water, and our anchor struck bottom
for the first time since we left Boston - one hundred and three days.
We were then divided into three watches, and thus stood out the remainder
of the night.
I was called on deck to stand my watch at about three in the morning,
and I shall never forget the peculiar sensation which I experienced
on finding myself once more surrounded by land, feeling the night
breeze coming from off shore, and hearing the frogs and crickets.
The mountains seemed almost to hang over us, and apparently from the
very heart there came out, at regular intervals, a loud echoing sound,
which affected me as hardly human. We saw no lights, and could hardly
account for the sound, until the mate, who had been there before, told
us that it was the "Alerta" of the Spanish soldiers, who were stationed
over some convicts confined in caves nearly halfway up the mountain.
At the expiration of my watch I went below, feeling not a little anxious
for the day, that I might see more nearly, and perhaps tread upon,
this romantic, I may almost say, classic island.
When all hands were called it was nearly sunrise, and between that time
and breakfast, although quite busy on board in getting up water-casks,
etc., I had a good view of the objects about me. The harbor was nearly
land-locked, and at the head of it was a landing-place, protected by a
small breakwater of stones, upon which two large boats were hauled up,
with a sentry standing over them. Near this was a variety of huts or
cottages, nearly an hundred in number, the best of them built of mud
and white washed, but the greater part only Robinson Crusoe like -
of posts and branches of trees. The governor's house, as it is called,
was the most conspicuous, being large, with grated windows, plastered
walls, and roof of red tiles; yet, like all the rest, only of one story.
Near it was a small chapel, distinguished by a cross; and a long, low
brown-looking building, surrounded by something like a palisade, from
which an old and dingy-looking Chilian flag was flying. This, of course,
was dignified by the title of Presidio.
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