We Were Glad Of The Opportunity To
Examine This Singular Place, And Hauling The Boat Up And Making
Her Well Fast, Took Different Directions Up And Down The Beach,
To Explore It.
San Juan is the only romantic spot in California.
The country
here for several miles is high table-land, running boldly to the shore,
and breaking off in a steep hill, at the foot of which the waters of the
Pacific are constantly dashing. For several miles the water washes
the very base of the hill, or breaks upon ledges and fragments of
rocks which run out into the sea. Just where we landed was a small
cove, or "bight," which gave us, at high tide, a few square feet of
sand-beach between the sea and the bottom of the hill. This was
the only landing-place. Directly before us, rose the perpendicular
height of four or five hundred feet. How we were to get hides down,
or goods up, upon the table-land on which the mission was situated,
was more than we could tell. The agent had taken a long circuit,
and yet had frequently to jump over breaks, and climb up steep
places, in the ascent. No animal but a man or monkey could get up
it. However, that was not our look-out; and knowing that the agent
would be gone an hour or more, we strolled about, picking up shells,
and following the sea where it tumbled in, roaring and spouting,
among the crevices of the great rocks. What a sight, thought I, must
this be in a south-easter! The rocks were as large as those of Nahant
or Newport, but, to my eye, more grand and broken. Beside, there
was a grandeur in everything around, which gave almost a solemnity
to the scene: a silence and solitariness which affected everything!
Not a human being but ourselves for miles; and no sound heard but
the pulsations of the great Pacific! and the great steep hill rising
like a wall, and cutting us off from all the world, but the "world of
waters!" I separated myself from the rest and sat down on a rock,
just where the sea ran in and formed a fine spouting horn.
Compared with the plain, dull sand-beach of the rest of the coast,
this grandeur was as refreshing as a great rock in a weary land.
It was almost the first time that I had been positively alone - free
from the sense that human beings were at my elbow, if not talking
with me - since I had left home. My better nature returned strong
upon me. Everything was in accordance with my state of feeling,
and I experienced a glow of pleasure at finding that what of poetry
and romance I ever had in me, had not been entirely deadened by the
laborious and frittering life I had led. Nearly an hour did I sit,
almost lost in the luxury of this entire new scene of the play in
which I had been so long acting, when I was aroused by the distant
shouts of my companions, and saw that they were collecting together,
as the agent had made his appearance, on his way back to our
boat.
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